5 ways of getting your 3D prints to stick
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Most interesting comments from YouTube:

Frans van Heel

Hi Tom

I have a Folgertech FT-5 printer. If the printer is setup good then its a very nice printer.
My 1st layer is sticking very well to my glassplate with a sheet of capton & some hairspray.
Also my BLTouch did work like magic. It took a long time to find out how to use it but now it's working very well.

My 1st layer sticks very good to the bed. However i do have another problem.
My support is not sticking to the baselayers.
The main structure (the part itself) prints very well but the support is not sticking in all places on the baselayer (raft or any flat printed part).
There are parts of the support that do stick but after a while the nozle drags the support lose. That's when i get garbage.
These are my settings:
Filament:PetG, Nozle:0.4mm, Multiplier:1.0
Temps: Nozle:220 c, Bed:60 c., Fan:0% on 1st layer then at 100%.
Primary Layer : LayerHeight:0.1500, Top/Bottomlayers:4, OutlineShells:3(Inside-Out),
1st Layer : Height:90%, With:100%, Speed:50%
Additions: Skirt: 2 layers, offset:0 (directly to part), Outlines: 15 (about 6mm). (So on the edge of the print there is a 0.3mm thick layer of 0.6mm outside the print. This acts as a sort of raft and works very well). So i don't use a raft if not needed.
Infill: Full Honicomb, Concentric, Interior Fill Percentage:10%, Outline Overlap: 15%, Infill Extrusion With:100%, Min.Infill Length:5mm, Print Sparse Infill Every:1 layers, Incl. Solid Diaphragm every:20 layers [active], Print every infill angle on each layer:[active]
Support: 20%, Extra Inflation Distance:2mm, Dense Support Layers:10, Dense Infill Perc.: 80%, Print support after every: 1 layers, Support Type:Normal, Support Pillar Resolution:10mm, Max.Overhang Angle:45deg., Angles: 0-45-135.

I hope these settings are enough to see where it goes wrong. If you need more info please ask.

Can you, or anyone else please help me?

Thank you

Rakku

Hey Thomas, Im totally new to 3D Printing and thinking about getting one.
Do you have a good model in mind?

Im currently set on the Renkforce RF1000 from conrad, since anything above 1400€ is just too much for me.
And do you have a complete guide somewhere, how to get started on 3D Printing?

And do you have a forum of some sort where I can get informations?

Thanks in advance,

a fellow german who wants to get into 3D printing ;)

All comments from YouTube:

3DLooper

4y↑225

I tried the following and it changed my life
- Precise bed calibration
- Switched to glass bed
- First Layer slow speed
- Increased base layer thickness

3DLooper

4y↑2

Floppy the Whale Till now I have tried Two PLA and one PETG and didn't see any problem.

Andy Pandy

4y↑4

I bought a glass bed, but it was warped :/. I’m not sure what the point of a warped glass bed is, but apparently it was fine to some people because it got mostly 5 star reviews

Mralabbad

3y↑8

@Andy Pandy you probably got the bad one in a thousand😂

Ian Jacklin

3y↑3

Cold bed with spray glue works EVERY time.

Joshua Carroll

2y↑1

@Ian Jacklin cold bed? Mine preheats to 60

4 More Replies...

Mehmet Salkim

7y↑215

You cannot imagine how much you helped a newbie with this video. I was very close to throw the printer out of window. Now printing my abs 20mm test cube with a bottle of soda and tears :)

Alper Gökcek

6y↑3

Thats good!

Jarrod Snow

6y↑5

Same deal with me life saver

Ramgladore

W8 you're using a bottle of soda for filament?

David Novak

@Ramgladore Haha I thought the same thing, except soda bottles are usually PET

fishbong

4y↑19

The best tip I ever got (after proper levelling of course) was to apply salt to the bed. You mix salt with water almost until the point of saturation, put the water on a tissue paper (but don't make it too soggy) and wipe that on the heated bed at about 70°C. The saltwater should evaporate after 3 or 4 seconds and the bed should be white and sparkle a bit under strong light. This will work better than glue stick, is cheaper and can be cleaned off in an instant. Even PETG will stick really well.

bailey125

2y↑1

Thanks, I'll give this a try at some point

GeminiTheAvali

6y↑6

One way to make the prints stick too, is to aply normal glue from a gluestick to the area where the print is printed,but not too much. I know it sounds weird but trust me it works fine!

BOSS BEEK- Beekeeping Techniques

7y↑4

Hey Tom, I've been printing directly on glass now for about 2 months without any(ANY) adhesives. It occurred to me that there is no better bond than nature, so I replaced my borocilite glass with a 1/4" mirror plate I got from the hardware store, then I gave it a nice static charge with a piece of silk; rubbing it back/forward in a single direction. It holds better than anything I've tried so far! You do need to give it a little time to even the mirror temperature, and it is definitely breeze sensitive, but other than that, it works perfect every time! It works for pla and PETG but I have not tried ABS(yet) You should try it! also, send me some ABS!!

jovanny velarde

1y↑1

Hey man, you’re really helping me out with these tips bro. I’m just a hobbyist and my prints suck, but I would like to someday print my own figures. Officially subscribed

Tinkerman

7y↑3

Thanks Tom! Good subject and a very good video as always, but this time, i wished it was a little longer :-) !! Perhaps you could go into this subject a little deeper and discuss the different options for adhesion on a per-material basis. Especially getting Nylon 12 to stick on the bed has turned out to be a big challenge for me. I have got good results with Nylon by putting down a thin even layer (0.2mm) of the water resistant version of white wood-glue (Bison) on the bed. After heating up the bed this glue hardens within minutes and lays down a beautiful transparent glass-like layer on the bed that is suitable as a good adhesive surface for ABS PLA and Nylon and even (be it a little less sturdy) for Polycarbonate. Since this glue is capable of attaching to anything that is cellulose based (such as wood) and since Nylon tends to stick to anything cellulose based, I thought I 'd give this glue a try and it turns out to be the material of my choice now for Nylon adhesion to the bed.. but I think there must be some kind of "more standard procedure" for Nylon that I still haven't heard about, because I could not find anyone else using white wood glue for Nylon, so there must be other materials that I haven't heard of that works well with Nylon I think. Perhaps you could enlighten us on this? Another material that is very interesting to print with nowadays is the earlier mentioned Polycarbonate. I now use the very expensive Buildtak surfaces for that purpose, but I wonder if there is a more DIY method for getting PC to stick to the bed. (For larger prints the Bison glue I mentioned does not work as well as Buildtak, but it still does work relatively well, and I would say good enough for most prints with a smaller footprint (up to 5x5 cm) on the bed (due to the high shrink rate of Nylon). Once again, my compliments on your videos, you are by far the most knowledgeable person on the subject of 3D printing on youtube in my opinion and I have the utmost respect for your work and the knowledge that you share with us on your channel.

Cars Simplified

4y↑8

My printer came with a magnetic sandpaper-like surface that is a great low-effort adhesion surface that basically just needs a good manual leveling of the bed and slow first layer, as you mentioned.

Paul C Johnson

7y↑1

I have used the raft function in the Marlin system all along since I found out about it. You will get a perfect bottom on your print because the whole system has settled down. You will get super adhesion.

Ramgladore

2y↑3

Great tips in this video. I'm using Cura that came with my cheap $100 printer from Amazon but I'd had more than enough print failures. But sure enough Cura had a setting to reduce the print speed for the first layer. I've had more luck with this that I feel I can walk away from my printer without having to check up on it. Thanks for the video!

Hans Choe

7y↑1

Hey Tom, I've been thinking about build material and right now waiting for PC plate 2T and 3T and depending on the rigidity and flexibility, I will apply PEI sheet on top of one of the PC. what do you think about this idea? I thought of putting PEI on glass but wanted to bend the plate to take the build off once its done.

NyN Shawty

2y↑1

Man I went through this stage too, always thinking it was the hardware. The key is proper bed leveling, which you have to keep a eye on. Something I forget so often from flashforge auto bed leveling. What I do is spray down the board every use. Make sure I’m leveled right (just a quick eyeball check just to make sure my hot end looks close to the bed as possible, if I see air between the nozzle and bed, I adjust. I always preheat for 15-30min. But personally I only check the brim to see how closely they are on the first layer. If the lines are messed up in any way, or if I see air in any of my brim lines. That’s a automatic stop print. The build won’t stick. The brim lines should look the same every time and go down the same. I found this helpful when I was pulling my hair

TheEvilVargon

7y↑4

I am absolutely loving these sponsored videos. Helpful information for everyone, not just the sponsor.

Jeremy Lucero

49w↑1

Grrr!!! I hated this, as a problem, for the longest time. Researched and tried every article and video to no avail...

...the way you've put it in laymen's terms is genius, Thomas...

...Now, if it were to happen again, I would probably consider the matter my own fault. Thanks for the extremely simple and difficult lesson in self awareness (I mean: 3d printing). I've always loved the elegance of being precise and concise.

Jeremy Lucero

49w↑1

No problem, my new friend. I just call it like I see it.

Rick Bates

Those first layer printer settings are gold. I have saved them as a specific config called "Toms ABS Settings". I also added at the same time mouse ears at every sharp corner for a simple print I was trying to do with ABS tthat failed 5 times in a row on a Prusa Mk3S+ (without an enclosure), and it now sticks and prints perfectly. Big thanks for this old gold.

Richard Adkins

5y↑2

This was invaluable to me. I received my first 3D printer two days ago and it wasn't until watching THIS video that I managed to get my first successful print. THANK YOU.

Richard Adkins

My very first print was so disastrous that it drilled a hole into the bed of the printer. I had the bed too high and.... that was not good. Obviously. I thought I had it leveled but, nope. Now I know how to level it correctly and how to set things up properly, thanks in a great part to you.

kspec2001

3y↑5

I wish i could press like on this video more than once. honestly your channel has made the process of "getting to the fun part" easier. cant thank you enough

Shire

6y↑1

I don't normally comment on videos, but this one has saved me after months of frustration with non-hatchbox PLA. Wiped my bed with acetone and over extruded the first layer, and it worked flawlessly. You da real MVP!

Nikki Harvey

4y↑4

This is one of the most helpful videos ever T-T thank you! My current print's first layer is so pretty!! ^-^

Laura Hajek

Thank you! You helped me fix my print! I've never seen such a clean first layer for the thing I'm printing!

drxym

Funnily its normally the 2nd or 3rd layer which gets me. 1st layer goes down fine, then the 2nd might have some problem approaching one corner and then the 3rd is a disaster. Even if I diligently level every corner it seems to happen. Fortunately most of my prints the 3rd layer is on the inside of something so it doesn't matter and usually it improves a bit after that.

StrangeRocks

4y↑1

Thank you so much!! Havent had a good print in days now without it warping off of the bed after a while. The first tip about it gowing slower and extruding more filament solved this almost instantly. I noticed the print looks cleaner at the bottom with this setting as well.

Robert White

I've used a glass build plate w/PCB heater for nearly five years and I've used painter's tape, alcohol, etc. for improving bed adhesion. However, early on, distilled white vinegar was recommended to me and it's never let me down. Before each print, I simple saturate a small portion of a rag and wipe the entire surface. Using a dry portion of the rag, I wipe the surface dry until it literally squeaks. As they say, squeaky clean. Where many struggle with warping, corner adhesion with ABS prints, I've no issues like that. This technique also works for PLA.

Isaac Otalora

7y↑2

Thank you so much Thomas! I've almost chucked my printer out of the window because my prints wouldn't stick to the build plate. Your videos help me so much!

Keith Lucas

My first printer was the FlashForge Dreamer, and several recommend a business card, which was hit and miss. By profession I am a high end tool and die automation master craftsman. Since I also used to teach at National Oilwell Varco I decided to stop using paper and use a .002 Mititoyo gauge shim. This not only did the trick, but I have to wait until everything is cool or I will pull the Kapton tape off the bed with the part. I've also managed to accidentally cut thru the tape even with the blade bevel side down. Like you say first layer is everything.

NECO LABS

7y↑1

Definitely my favorite 3D printing channel. Keep up the good work!

Margery Maraudy

I found the best ever adhesion is obtained by using acetate sheet stuck (or clipped) to the bed with glue stick. And the best ones are those meant for inkjet printers with a bluish coating on one side (coating on print side). Those meant for laser printer (no coating) are excellent but difficult to unstick.

Electra Flarefire

Old tricks but always good to know, be reminded of and for others to find out about.
If you see it and still regually use glue sticks, try Elmer's 'disappearing purple' as it seems to work better than the normal stuff.
(Switched from Uhu to that when there was a shortage some time bacl. Don't like the smell and I liked that the Uhu was German, but the purple one outperforms. The normal not so much. At least on glass with 100c first layer printing ABS)
Only thing I've never found out how to get to stick is 'FlexPLA'. That sticks to /nothing/. Closest is buildtak running hot.)

jonathan marsh

7y↑2

This is without a doubt the best video discussing print bed adhesion. Thank you Thomas!

Frans van Heel

GRIPSTSER MASTERMIND

So far my test friends have come out perfect I'm printing something a lot bigger with more dimension 8017 lower receiver the two hours I noticed it wasn't sticking it would bent so I stopped it and now I'm doing it again this time I'm adding little drops of crazy glue on the corners to make it stick during the process it's working very very well

LazerLord10

7y↑79

I use lemon juice as my bed adhesion 'glue' with 60C bed temp.
I know it sounds weird, but it works great for large surface area parts in PLA. If they aren't too tall, they stick so well I can pick up the printer by the print, but after the bed cools, it's as if the print was just set on the bed; it just lifts right off.

Sevendogtags

7y↑1

That's pretty cool! Have you tried it for ABS?

LazerLord10

7y↑2

Not yet, I doubt it will work, but I can see what happens.

Adam Adikimenakis

Sounds awesome! Have you tried to use lemon juice without a heated bed and see if it works? This would be the cheapest alternative solution!

LazerLord10

7y↑2

I don't think it works unheated. Again, I haven't tried it, but with the
ways it's been behaving with me, when the bed gets down to room
temperature (14C for me, lol), it basically loses all of its adhesive
properties. That's great for detaching after the bed cools, but for
unheated, I don't think it would work.

Adam Adikimenakis

Maybe when i make a heater for my bed i will try it. For the moment i have found that the best solution for an unheated bed is to use uhu stick glue. It even works for small ABS parts!!!

7 More Replies...

Michel Joseph Cardin

Use water base primer and there if you want to not need to ever do anything; glue a thin fabric or fine grit sanding paper but if you absolutely really need to have the pad off; in order to remove your print then don't do that or a stretchy fabric (because raising the heat to super high will release it at the lowest most area of your material). And also; it's just like hot glue; you need to raise the bed at super high for the beginning because just like hot glue; the surfaces' heat is more important then the glue. I use a torch for working with hot glue sticks; I have no use for the glue gun; at all; even.

Joel

When printing an object with a large square surface, and printer moves diagonally to fill, i get filament rising slightly between lines - like a landscape. I suspect this is due to filament being squished out and pushing the previous line which then rises. I am going to try following fix/calibration: Set first layer thickness, e.g. 0.2mm. Start printing, stop when a line has been laid. Use a micrometer to measure thickness of line - then live adjust difference to get precisely 0.2mm thickness in next print. Repeat and remeasure to take into account material squished upward first run. Then print the part. This should make the material squish the exact extrusion width and produce a smooth surface. Final factor is extrusion multiplier, this has to be correctly calibrated for this to work since otherwise the width will differ even if layer height is perfect. Suggest printing a tall H (10mm) where middle measures 1mm in cad, with two perimiters each 0.5mm. Measure thickness with micrometer and calibrate the difference as this indicates over/under extrusion. Agreed anyone?

redkurn

this helped immensely, had been using a4 paper and getting no where, flipped my build plate over to the cleanest side, used a business card like you said, did all the setting 0 stuff in marlin gcode, and bam! perfect out the gate! now i can print a fan duct.

tried to use a rubbing alcohol based cleaner for computers, didn't help and will have to get the pure stuff for next time it needs wiped down.

Adolf Valášek

7y↑5

Maybe you could do a series of videos, trying different bed surfaces, often even weird ones, just to see what works. I have tried printing PLA onto regular sheet paper or that carbon fibre-looking PVC foil with good results. That one guy below me says he's using lemon juice. Basically, whatever you find around your house, stick it onto the printbed and see if you can get the print to stick.

Mr. Sileniu

Adolf Valášek you can try with soda drinks like coca cola . You put coca cola on the bed then wipe it and after its dry the bed will be very stcky from the sugar:)).

Da Hai Zhu

7y↑1

Note that some special beds specifically state to NOT use Alcohol to clean them: PrintBite and possibly Pursa I3 Mk2. Follow the manufacture's directions to be safe

UrLawyer

5y↑10

First print (the sample dog) was basically perfect. Second print - NOTHING worked. Tried 3 different surface types (default pad, Creality 3D glass, Lowe’s mirror tiles), cleaned with alcohol, tried glue sticks, hairspray, repeatedly leveled the bed - first layer kept curling up.

What finally worked was increasing the bed temp by 10 degrees to 70, increasing the initial layer line width to 150 percent, increasing the filament flow and reducing the initial layer speed.

Jack Kuehneman

5y↑1

Do you have to make changes like what he did to every print file from the slicer?? Or can you tell the machine to adjust when you preheat for pla, abs etc?. I'ma complete noob

LeftyPencil

@Jack Kuehneman prob late, but you should be able to store these adjustments into the printer or in your sliced software-aka more YouTube!

Eric ERTO

1y↑1

This was absolutely beyond helpful thank you

EducationDZ

6y↑3

This actually solved my printing problem, many thanks Thomas!

Devin Coppy

Thank you so much for the guide have been fighting my new 3d printer for almost a week nothing would stick changed the first layer height and we are good now <3

Matthew Allen

really great advice! unfortunately I own a davinci 1.1 plus which has two screws on the back left and back right, and one screw in the middle front, so you have to imagine moving a triangle under a square to really adjust the bed at all. I'm not sure why they chose this way instead of putting a screw on all four sides of the bed lol.

Robin Evans

7y↑1

Matthew Allen actually 3 points is easier than 4, since it's less points to calibrate, as long as the bed is stiff enough and completely flat it is better 😀 see the ultimaker 3 in the video it has two at the front but one at the back . It's possible to warp a bed with 4 badly adjusted screws particularly with pcb heaters. I hope that explains the decision for 3 points of adjustment

Cédric CRISPIN

7y↑3

Love your channnel :)
I'm about to buy my first 3D printer and i really enjoy all your videos!
Happy holidays to you and all your family!
Keep it the great job and all the best for 2017 :)

Nathan

43w

Thank you! I had a print fail 4 times on the first layer only to discover my bed height was off by 0.05mm (I have an auto bed leveller).

Gary Jones

5y↑1

Going to try this today, I've been struggling when I went from pla which worked perfect everytime to petg, but I see where this makes sense. Thank you!

Anthony Giangaspro

Tried all this and found out it was my own error, so just putting it here just in case someone else is going crazy like I was: Make sure you are printing with the correct line width. I was trying to print using 0.28 line width with a 0.4 nozzle. Worked fine with smaller prints, but caused a lot of problems with larger prints. Your minimum line width needs to be, at minimum, equal to your nozzle diameter.

Hummingbird.UAV

7y↑2

I have excellent adhesion by printing onto a piece of masking tape. Also use four patches of tape in the corners of the bed for leveling. I'm printing ABS @ 220°

Wayne Black

I went from a heated glass bed with hair spray, (Messy!) to using Elmer's Glue Stick.
It worked, but I started pulling chips from the borosilicate glass and my bed began to look like the moon.

Finally, I tried a sheet of PEI and not only did it cover the craters in the glass, but worked wonders for ABS sticking to the bed.
I was printing large objects that would go beyond the heating element under the glass.
The temperature would drop drastically beyond the element and I was getting bed separation.
The PEI solved that. It seems to keep ABS stuck to the bed at lower temps. Even down to 70º C.

Talin Egle

I have the prusa print that you used and I could never get anything to stick to it so I used painters tape and I wipe it down with a towel after every print and it works great!

Next Project Awesome

7y↑1

Thanks for doing this video. Glad when experts share tips like this.

Mark Venn

5y↑3

Thanks Thomas. I've been having trouble with my Ender 3 for the last couple of weeks after 2 months of no problems. I'll try out your test prints to see what I can do about it.

maggoli67

Do you use a glass bed? I just assembled mine and had sliding test pieces on the magnetic spongy bed that came in the box.

KILO993

This helped a lot! At least until I can install the BL Touch on my ender 3. It's odd to me that my glass bed has a dip in the middle. Anyone else experience this? Do I need stronger clips near the far corners to even it out?

Cezary Daniel Nowak

Before first leveling I usually adjust my bed endstops because for the most cheap printers springs are too loose.

Patrick Rombaut

6y↑9

Sanding the glass plate with a grain400 sanding paper works well for me.
Print sticks perfectly to the heated bed.

Patrick Rombaut

Just be patient and let it cool down to 30 degree C and take it off

Mark18070

Thanks for this; really good tips to try. My Ender 3 was working great but now will not stick, I will give this all a go! Glue stick, who knew?!!!

3D Printed Aspie

7y↑1

Thank you for sharing Tom.
This is going to help a massively.

Selman

Hi guys, the mirror never worked for me but I saw a video on YouTube that recommended polycarbonate sheet and it worked so good that I had difficulty releasing my print from the sheet. Cheers

D. Lawrence Miller

Some printers actually do have a sensor so they can detect when the nozzle is touching the bed.

Michael

So it's best to use a bigger first layer height? Was wondering why I couldn't get the print to stick it just kept rolling of the glass layer height set to 0.2 mm and then I tried 0.1 mm and still no luck. Then I went to 0.35 mm and it started to stick so should I use a thicker layer height for the first layer? I've also ordered some buildtak sheets as printer didn't come with tape or anything so figured I'll give buildtak a try.

vincent koek

I have an print bed sticker and sometimes the filament (especially ABS) does not stuck. So I use hair gel and brush it on the bed. It works for me. Greetings from the Netherlands!

KatjaPurrs

BuildTak + 25C bed temp for PLA seems to work pretty well :)

Cullen L

xKatjaxPurrsx 45 to 60 c is best

Jeannie Llewellyn

Is there a reason glass would be a better bed than a flexible material that can pop the printed work off after it's done?

Daniel Balfour

By how much would you make the first layer taller?

Jan Kowalski

Hi everybody, I print on the glass bed and for me the best solution for good adhesion is ... WATER WITH SUGAR. Just before printing I wipe the warm bed (50-60 deg C) with cloth soaked sweet water. After 1 minute you have thin sticky layer on your bed - IT WORKS GREAT !

Paddy Ninja

I've almost got it printing perfectly, but the initial layer doesn't have adhesion until about 3 inches into the print. It's infuriating, I feel like tossing the bloody thing out the window. I'm going to try your suggestions Mr. Sanladerer and if it helps I'll give you the credit for it. Till then wish me luck.

Dave Gaylord

All great advice! Keep up the good work.

Lasse u

7y↑1

Keep up with the good work, Gaylord!

Rakku

DaddyDeepdink

Can you show us a close up video of your Display Settings how to change the temperature for the print. I can get the temp up to 220 in the settings but when it starts printing, the Temp drops down to 200. I wanna be able to make it print at 220 because the Filament isn't sticking and it's blobbing up out of the extruder tip. Thanks

articxq

Calibrating layer to 0 made my prints working perfect and not getting out at build plate. This helped. :DD

TheLeo328

7y↑1

Really helpful, Thomas! Thank You!

Rob Andrews

7y↑1

Thanks again for another awesome video, Tom!

Jason Donavich

My prints are sticking way to much, I've just got an ender 3 and although the prints look really nice its almost impossible to remove the filament that it lays down around the item. My brand new bed is now very, very scratched.

JC Girotti

7y↑2

I'm a hairspray guy. It's basically a witch's brew of nylon, polyurethane, and acrylic. Inexpensive, easy to apply in a super thin coat, and simple to clean up. But yeah, level your bed and tune your temps and speeds.

Robin Evans

John Girotti It's awesome on glass, I never got it to work on aluminium I use uhu gluestick on that

bbogdanmircea

John Girotti I use hair spray on unheated bed covered with kapton tape to print PLA, worked well for a lot of parts now not sticking anymore my printer is quite hobby like . older Printrbot . Usually brim from Cura is much better than brim from slic3r as it surrounds all the contours . I will try the over ectruded first layer on unheated kapton to see how that goes . Anybody know how to set fill in cura parallel to x or y not diagonslly ? my printer vibrated like crazy on diagonal infill

JC Girotti

It can be difficult, to the point of frustration, to use on metal build plates. Who wants to put multiple layers of adherent down? The only aluminum plate I use now has a chemically etched surface that has pretty good adherence, even dry. The problem I run into with it is the high heat transfer rate, so I only use it heated, with skirts or mouse ears. I do use glue stick occasionally, mostly for prints that only use a small portion of the plate. It's kept in the fridge. It seems to lay a thinner, more consistent coat when chilled. Also, it's minty. Who doesn't like a fresh-smelling print?

JC Girotti

7y↑1

I run what started as a Simple 2013 (#4698!) on a daily basis. Try a couple prints without the Kapton. I'm going to assume you are using Cura 2.3.1. In the "Print Setup" sidebar to the right, click on the "Custom" button. Hover your mouse over "Infill" and you should see a gear icon. Click the icon to open the "Infill" settings. Expand the menu listing and you'll see "Infill Pattern." Make sure the box is checked. Close the "Preferences" pop-up. You should now have the "Infill Pattern" pull-down menu in the <Print Setup-Custom-Infill> menu, right underneath "Infill Density." Also, consider lowering the X and Y acceleration speeds.

bbogdanmircea

John Girotti Ok hope I find it great !

Huskycomicowner

If anyone has a ender 3 what settings do you use to make the fillment stick to the build platform.

Fredo Corleone

5y↑1

Level you bed perfectly, for PLA heat bed to 60° and nozzle to 196°, print on glass. That's all! On my CR10S prints come out perfectly. No glue nor tape.

OżeżTyFPV

I should adjust nozzle high when in auto home or during printing? I am asking because nozzle is in different height after auto home compared to first layer hight while printing. So I pullout filament and start printing, after a few seconds I stop the print and then check with the paper if it make any resistance and then I adjust Z offset in printer settings. So my question is if I am doing it correctly or I should check the height after auto home, not in accrual printing?

Asger Jørgensen

6y↑1

Sanded glass works very well for me.(using PETG)

Brandon Franklin

I would like you to do a video for PLA I have a Dremel 3-D 40 with a non-heated bed and have trouble with some PLA’s adhering to the painters tape and some stick with no problem I’m wondering if there’s a difference between premium PLA and regular PLA when it comes to non-heated beds and if I can use glue on top of painters tape to make it stick better or just making the first layer go slower or what I can do I want to experiment but not waste a lot filament because I am doing this with school materials

XXCoder

Awesome!! I have been having issues with stick.

Ronald Lambier

I've got an Ender 3 and have run into a rather unique issue. With the Stock bed material. I can't get the printed parts off of it. Do you have any suggestions other than a hammer and a chisel?

KL

i was struggling to print the frist layer for a while and it works after watching yout video. thanks for the help

Mark

I just use temperature activated spray-on adhesive.

I don't care what the first layer looks like as long as it sticks.

neo Jeets

6y↑1

Thanks for the video. I'm just starting out and this info helps out a lot.

MegaHomieJ

its 4:30 am and im still at my ender 3 trying to tune my first layer. ahh the joys of 3d printing!

Fellu

Same lol

pronobozo

My bed heat was default at 60, I switched to 64. Also preheating the bed before calibrating, small change but sticks every time.

Ma De

7y↑1

Nice video, but how would one know if the nozzle is in the right hight when the Material used is not already tuned in perfectly?

Ma De

So if i get you right the most part is to dial in the exact physical constraints. By the way to dial in the actual Filamentdiameter is a very good point, i missed that so far. But still you would have to change your Extrusion Multiplier with different Filament- Manufacturer/Materials. Why is that so? If everything is done right, shouldn't the Multiplier be "1" except you would deliberately want to Over- or Under-extrude?
Thanks a lot for sharing your knowledge.

kobe lo

the distance of the nozzle and bed is depend on the layer height ?

Andrew Holsonbake

Thanks so much it worked like a charm :)

kingkakig

what's wrong if it doesn't print properly, but the filament comes out as a string?

Stray Wizard

great info useful as always.

EstaWorks-3D

is there a tutorial on how to get your parts to not stick so well? buildtak issues XD i can lift the printer by the part it printed (i do not don't worry)

B H

6y↑2

Great tips! Thank you!

NOOB T4E GUNS

Very good advises my friend thank you 👍🏻😀

Макаренков Владимир

7y↑5

Thomas
Your advice make my life easier !! thank you so much!!!!

mike36801

7y↑1

Thomas, I used to print on glass, PLA is OK, but never got it to stick with ABS, I even pushed the bed to 130 degree, still did not work. Also tried kapton tape, blue tape, glue stick, spray, still not satisfied with results. Then I tried to 3D print on Acrylic Sheet (got it from here: https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.clear-acrylic-sheet---220-inch-x-18-inch-x-24-inch.1000126448.html ), and I LOVE IT!! You have to print on a cold bed because the sheet bends a lot with heat. My prints stick to it really well! I broke a few parts because I could not remove them. You have to get the first layer perfect, if it's too squished, you can't remove the part, it becomes one with the Acrylic Sheet. ABS sticks well, but corners still bend, so brim solves the problem. But considering that it's on cold bed, I think it's awesome! Please TRY IT!! TRY IT !! TRY IT !!

drakosha1020

Try print on beer on the glass. I'm really happy with this method. Prints with ABS at 240 deg. C, and 105 deg. C for the bed.

mike36801

Since I print on Acrylic Sheet, I don't need a heated bed. I print ABS at 240 deg C, and heated bed is OFF

drakosha1020

But how many prints will withstand your acrylic sheet? And they cost money. And this problems with prints, that sticks to the sheet...

mike36801

7y↑1

I've been using it for over a month, so it's hard to say. I printed about 30 parts on it, all of them in the center of the bed, and so far no sign of degradation. Yes it costs money, but it's not that much considering the money I spent on other things I have tried that did not work. Also the sheet in the link above it's quite big, you can probably cut out 6 smaller sheets 20cm by 20 cm for the 3D printer. And if it does loose stickiness over time, you can use the other side also. Also... you can use sand paper, to remove a tiny layer, and make the surface abrasive for even better stickiness. The way I see it, the sheet I am using right now, it should last for quite some time, a year or more... I don't know... but it looks promising so far. About "problems with prints, that sticks to the sheet"; once you get that first layer to be at the correct height, then every part will print perfect, and have moderate stickiness. The Acrylic Sheet is flexible, so after I print, I take it out of the printer, bend the sheet to unstick parts of the print, then I use a cutter to insert the blade in between to remove / unstick the rest. Look... I don't sell this Acrylic Sheet, I am not trying to benefit from it... I just want to share my success with what I have tried, because I am really happy with this solution. It's up to you to try it, and spread the word...

drakosha1020

This is good result! I was thinking that one sheet last about 2-3 prints maximum. :) Thanks, must try it in this case. :)

2 More Replies...

maggoli67

Do the adhesives only work with a glass bed? I just assembled Ender 3 and had sliding test pieces on the magnetic spongy bed that came in the box.

Chase 2113

5y↑3

this is exactly what I was looking for!

3Dhaptic

Klasse Tipps, kurz und knackig !

_Tim_

How can I get better bed adhesion without a heated bed? The leveling is done by a bltouch and is calibrated well. I use a glass bed with glue stick. I tried everything but the first layer dos not stick every time. Can someone please help me? Thanks for an answer.

Subjektive Gaming

50w

Mine either stick too much or become lose mid-print... I cannot seem to find the sweetspot. I started pausing my prints and taping the base before continuing.

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