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Hi-Fidelity Situations
Combo Audio Lyrics


We have lyrics for these tracks by Combo Audio:

Romanticide It wasn't like movies In movies they work it out…

The lyrics can frequently be found in the comments below, by filtering for lyric videos or browsing the comments in the different videos below.
Most interesting comments from YouTube:

M I

Dennis Berserik Hi Dennis, it may be doable.

Check the speaker terminals on the rear of your amp, and if it says something like: A or B into 4ohms / A + B into 8ohms, then your amp is not dual amped, and it is not going to achieve the bi-amp effect (ie improving dynamic range).

It may still improve sound quality depending on the design of your amp, but not by sharing the dynamic range of the output between HF & LF signals.

I have an old Cambridge Audio amplifier that does benefit from employing the speaker B outputs.

Make sure you assign HF to A or B (your choice) and then the LF to the opposite speaker terminals.

What's typical, is that there's a redundant transformer inside the amp, but not a second amp.

Btw, the total wattage does not double from combining two amps or A+B speakers, but better sonic control is achievable.

Moreover, if your amp is not designed to work with an additional amp, it cannot be biamped.

The two things to consider when biamping:

1) can the amp of choice (x2) control the gain output of the 'slave' amp?

2) sound characteristics

Because every amp has unique sound characteristics, it is not advisable to mix different amps.

Bi amping is tricky, and having an amp you love the sound characteristics of, but one that cannot be biamped (because it lacks the ability to control gain of the slave amp), is a dead end as far as improving its dynamic range.

True biamping is nowadays expensive.



M I

Nice vid, good info and using the redundant amp in a AV receiver is how I'd advise friends to biamp.

However, the only problem with AV amps is that they're not designed 'solely' for audiophiles, and the preferred 2.1 set up on AV amps requires a workaround biamping through the 'Zone 2' configuration, but...

...this configuration prevents the 'Pure Audio' option in AV amps that have it, for audiophiles.

The sub pre outs do not provide enough gain, even for self-powered subs, so Zone 2 workaround is required for the sub.

The only way to biamp, is, obviously: two amps.

But they have to be designed to 'gain match', one being the master amp controlling gain output, and the slave amp volume control being DESIGNED to allow full output - my slave amp volume control is set to FULL.

Note: biamping DOES NOT DOUBLE THE WATTAGE.

My amp's output is 65w per channel into 8ohms: biamped the output into 8ohms is STILL 65w.

Biamping improves sonic control by improving the 'dynamic range' of the amplification.

One amp only has to control LFs, the other the HFs.

It's like getting to use both arms to lift a heavy weight, as opposed to one arm, except it's not a barbell but two dumbbells.

One dumbbell is HF the other LF...

...the sonic improvements from true biamping are not merely subjective, but objectively observable.

Now, some people have Speaker A+B options, it's possible their amp has a redundant transformer: a second arm - not a second amp - which is like having a barbell...

...much less awkward for the amp to CONTROL the HF&LFs simultaneously.



Rasheed Khan

The only thing that sort of makes sense is that you want to reduce the frequency range assigned to a single driver. A cone that is being required to simultaneously play sounds at multiple frequencies may create distortion. So that's why you would use a crossover circuit to send only highs to the tweeter, mids to the midrange and bass to the woofer. Ok that's 3-way, if the mid and bass are combined you have 2-way.
So the question is where is the crossover? In the amp? Nope. In the speakers, probably but not all. If there's no crossover then to my mind, bi wiring makes no difference because the drivers are still being asked to reproduce the full frequency spectrum. And if there are crossovers then its unnecessary to add second run of wires because the same job is being done by the the metal jumper or bridge.

Bi amping makes sense to me only if the crossovers have been moved to before the power amp. Now the power circuits are also only being asked to amplify a smsller frequency spectrum and to transmit that to the appropriate driver. Makes sense there will be less distortion both at the amp level and speaker level.

I don't own an AV multichannel receiver so I have no idea if it can separate speakers by frequency and where it does it, before power amplification or after.

Then comes the concept of using separate power amps for left and right. Typical pre-amp plus two monoblocs configuration. Again its about reducing distortion this time not by separating by frequency but by signal. You are asking each amp to play only a mono signal and by having them in separate boxes you are reducing cross contamination of circuit noise and em fields. Same reason for separate pre and power.

But this monobloc set up isn't a biamp setup in the sense of this video. Because each amp is still working the full spectrum. So you would need 4 monoblocs. Two per channel - one each for higher frequencies that are sent only to the tweeters and same again for mid bass. And if you go with 4 amps you should really go for 6. Or add two subwoofers and have 8 amps.

Quickly gets rather silly.



Kwarkusmodius

Hi Techno Dad,


Thanks for this video! I have a Denon 4500h and Pol s60e (2 times). These speakers can Bi wire so I will be trying this out to see if there is any difference.
My Speakers can do 300 watt at 8 ohm and my Denon can do 9 x 200 watt at 8 ohm.
So hopefully with this option I get more volume and a bit better sound out of these speakers.

I will update later to test the bi amp/ bi wired. Im just curious. I have the S35e as center speaker (also Polk) and in the back S20e speakers.
If I bi amp the speakers in the front, wouldn't the volume be out of proportion at the front?
So lets say I crank up the volume at 50. Would the front be much louder than the back that isn't bi wired/bi amped?



Helikopterpop

Well my dilemma is like this:


I just bought an expensive sound system with relatively cheap receiver, and my thought was to upgrade that onkyo tx-nr696 signal to the speakers through a rotel rb1080 (2x200W). But since they are hard to find here in sweden I instead came across an rmb-1077 (7x100W rotel amp). And since the thought was to drive my define df-8 fronts with the rotel rb1080 (2x200W). I will be using fronts, back surrounds and center, the sub goes from a pre out. So I have 7x100W channels to drive 5 speakers, which would let me bi-amp the fronts to give the fronts 200W kind of. I know it's not really comparable to actually have a 200W connected to the speaker and let the speaker divide how much the highs and lows need. But will that be worth the while? If I go with the rotel amp, I need to change receiver and the seller of rotel also sells the preamp onkyo pr-sc5509 which was their high-end receiver for like 10 years ago or something. It might lack some features like spotify and such, but it has 4k upscaling compared to the previous mentioned onkyo. I should also mention that the onkyo I have is completely new, so I have the option to send it back if I were to go for the latter decition.




So to sum it up.


Which choice to be made?


1. Keep Onkyo tx-nr696 and wait until i eventually find a rotel 1080 and only drive the fronts via that amp (that onkyo does not have preouts for all the channels, just the front and sub) and the rest via the onkyos outlets which with their false claim should be 175W per channel and onkyo sound. This unit does not have 4k upscaling or any picture options.


vs.


2. Buy Onkyo pr-sc5509 and the rotel rmb-1077 which would give me an older receiver, but I could get signals to all speakers from the famous rotels honest wattage outlets. And in that case I'd be using bi-amp to split 4 channels over the two fronts and thereby let the woofers have 100W and the mid/tweeter have 100W.


Option number 2 would be like 200$ more expensive. (Until I find the rotel 1080, then the option one would be like 500$ more expensive) So in the long run?!


Option 3 would be to just drive my system with onkyo tx-nr696 period and not do all the rotel trouble. But I got what is to be concidered high end speakers now. The dynavoice define df-8 and dc-6 etc...



All comments from YouTube:

Cecilia Cañizares

After 1 hour surfing youtube, finally someone who explained this!!! Thank you

Adrian-Liniste Anghel

Oh my goodness right. Your the best thanks man. Much love.

64fairlane359

Sorry girl but you have been misleaded

Chris Duncan

This is exactly what I was looking for. Thank you!

Techno Dad

You’re welcome Chris!

Schmolinski

Hey dude, you made my day! Thank you so much :-)

MrVein

3:53 i like how the yamaha actually has outputs for bi-amp, still hooking them to the same output..

Sunil Badlani

you do great job of explaining technical stuff. thx

Matthieu Parent

This is awesome, thanks for giving all the info in the same video, I appreciate!

Techno Dad

You're very welcome Matthieu. Thank you for watching!

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