There are at least 8 artists under the name Multiplex.

1) Multiplex … Read Full Bio ↴There are at least 8 artists under the name Multiplex.

1) Multiplex are Electronic Brothers
Christian and Roland Dormon.
They have releases on Toytronic, Senton, Humanshield,
Lom and U-Cover records - multiplexuk.bandcamp.com

2) San Diego synth pop duo formed in 2012 and uses various analog synthesizers and drum machines

3) One of the premier forces in Japanese grind/death, until their untimely break-up after their 1996 American tour with Hellchild.

4) A brazillian electrorock band from Sao Paulo formed in 2003 (www.myspace.com/multiplexbr).

5) Julian López, who's been producing goa trance since early nineties.

6) A Vietnamese metalcore band

7) D-beat punk from Bremen, Germany: https://multiplexpunk.bandcamp.com/

8) A Dutch dnb MC. The crazy red-bearded Dutchman is the in-house MC of Black Sun Empire and has several residencies in his pocket like Cheeky Monday & Blackout. He is also the frontman for Killer Hertz.

Track 1
Multiplex Lyrics

We have lyrics for 'Track 1' by these artists:

1.5 Kg Israeli she said I don't believe her She a liar But that'll …
9. Nirvana Yeah, when I was younger, I didn't know what to…
A.d.F. Gimme the mic! Hey, gimme the mic! 勝手一番手 bad 一郎登場満場一致…
Al-Jarreau Drive on Until I get there I think i’ll drive on Until I…
Anthrax No, there are no easy answers To sum up the problems…
B 1 Uh, uh, uh, c'mon Hah, sicka than your average Poppa tw…
b 2 From day one you and I been friends. Hangin' out, havin'…
B.T.G My song is a serious matter It reflects what I feel If…
Bad Brains In the quest for the test to fulfill an achievement Everybo…

Buddy Guy feat. Eric Clapton Tossing and turning All night long Down in my pillow Felt s…
C.V.E. I took our pictures off the wall Off the shelf Off the…
Das Krause Duo Nr.2 Shashlyndos Shashlyndos Shashlyndos Shashlyndos Shashlyndos …
DJ. HALOU Mi hanno detto l'unione fa la forza Ma io la uso…
Dr. Dre/Tray Deee/Xzibit You're a mean one, Mr. Grinch, You really are a heel, You'…
E-Machine I took our pictures off the wall Off the shelf Off the…
E. Pahud This one goes out to the one I love This one…
E.B.T.G I took our pictures off the wall Off the shelf Off the…
H.E.D. Ah ah ah! Stupid! Pull up, I put you in casket I did…
Hardcore Underground Vol. 2 Perpetual bombilations for fertilization The white orbs call…
J.L. Bucchi [Intro] Yea..i been tryna get away..but its just something …
Jaheim Ooh Ah ha! Yo things was all fine when the sun…
Krause Duo Nr.2 I will follow I was on the outside when you said You…
L.A. Crash Shashlyndos Shashlyndos Shashlyndos Shashlyndos Shashlyndos …
N.B.N. From day one you and I been friends. Hangin' out, havin'…
O. Ditkovskis Grant & H1ghSky1 Diss Track A goat in the sky… Psych! This…
Puff Daddy/Usher I need a girl to ride, ride, ride I need a…
Stefan Raab feat. Shaggy Sean Paul: This one is for all the sexy ladies Yeah man Pack…
surffaker-n.t.inc-cinico p.b.-devils advocate From day one you and I been friends. Hangin' out, havin'…
The Feeling Well, you were there when the wall came down A baby…
The Tinys I'm keeping better track of my dreams I don't recognize what…
V.2 Perpetual bombilations for fertilization The white orbs call…
William S. Burroughs Gus Van Sant Is the Richard Gere gerbil story true? Who came third in…
William S. Burroughs + Gus Van Sant I love my chick I love my baby I love my chick I…
X.T.R.I.M. Oh happy fiend's day Oh happy spring day to you 幸福一定在你身边 Oh …
[unknown] The lord is my shepherd, the shepherd is my lord Watch…
Н. Емелин Last day of the rest of my life I wish…

We have lyrics for these tracks by Multiplex:

Audio Engine Telahku lalui Telahku lukai Dibuai mimpi-mimpi Mengasyikkan …

The lyrics are frequently found in the comments by searching or by filtering for lyric videos

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Comments from YouTube:

beezer doodle

2y↑222

Great tip, I am a cabinetmaker and I enjoy figuring out clever ways of solving the puzzles that woodworking presents. One suggestion for increased accuracy: when measuring from the saw blade to the edge of the table to check if they are parallel, take a magic marker and mark a tooth on the blade then measure from the marked tooth to the edge then rotate the blade so that you can measure from the same tooth for your second measurement. The saw blade may be warped just slightly and measuring from the same tooth both times eliminates that issue. Keep the great tips coming!

jeff shackleford

2y↑5

We usually just cut from the drop side against the fence.

If you stand with the sheet braced against your hip and keep your hands outside the blade, even if it does kickback, it will throw the sheet in such a way that it will rotate off your hip and your hands will be thrown away from the blade.

The saw sounds like it is on the verge of kickback the entire time you are cutting ( because it is), but your cuts will be within a 32nd straight and that is fine if you hide that edge where the shoe molding or crown will cover it.

Michael Magana

yes

Trumps Orange Jumpsuit

1y↑3

Blade warpage will make one tooth, or teeth, on that blade a shorter distance from the table edge than all the rest, so arbitrarily picking a tooth, or teeth, other than that one(s) just mentioned, will give you an incorrect cutting distance. One way to check for warpage, and if it exists, to identify the shortest distanced tooth, or teeth, is to use an indicator mounted on a stand and check the blade by rotating it by hand to check for the high point which will allow you to identify the shortest distince tooth, or teeth from your table edge.

jeff shackleford

1y↑2

@Trumps Orange Jumpsuit I am not convinced that is necessary, especially if you can adjust for that slight change in dimension when you set the fence distance.

Otherwise you can make a couple cuts and bring your fence distance marker to the measured dimension cut.

ranckie

2y↑15

Great tip and I'll keep it in mind that next time I'm faced with that issue. Another tip if one wanted to increase the accuaracy when measuring from the table edge to the saw blade, simply place a long straight edge (12" to 15") against two of the saw teeth to widen the area of the measurement when checking for parallelism.

George Minton

48w

While I deal mostly with rough lumber, I have had instances where I needed a wider table saw than I had. I ended up using adjustable height rollers from the big box store to support the weight of the plywood sheet. I see you just need a factory edge on your plywood. I like your idea as well. Thanks for the tip.

Michael Flowers

1y↑5

Hi Jodee, I used this method this morning to cut the sides of a set of cabinets to their final size. I have an old 119 series Craftsman table saw that has a limited fence width, however, this method worked GREAT!
I receive a lot of value from your videos. Thanks for putting in the time and effort to produce these awesome resources!

Keith Kinyon

2y↑125

I have been making things out of wood for 60 years. I have never seen this before. What I like best about it is that it appears to be very safe as well as accurate. Well done.

Peter Owens

2y↑5

Hardly accurate when the squaring is done with such a small square.

roy Yung

2y↑1

@Peter Owens explain your point of being "inaccurate"

CHARLIE DELTA

2y↑1

@Peter Owens., Exactly, hardly square, is the word.

Casmige

2y↑5

@Peter Owens
Remember it’s not the size of the square that matters, it’s how you use it.

No I’m just fucking kidding, ....you’re right

tommy K

2y↑2

@CHARLIE DELTA that would be an unfortunate family name name of the company making the square. Hardly square. Lol

2 More Replies...

Harri Savolainen

2y↑64

You can avoid some hassle by setting the table saw fence next to the blade, then lower the blade and just clamp the guide board to your sheet using your fence as a reference. And, Check for square! Great videos!

David Swanson

2y↑23

Yes so long as the edge of the plywood is already square and flat, whereas I believe he was saying his edge was wobbly.

Downunda

2y↑2

I am not a lateral thinker .Would You have a diagram please ? ThankYou either way !

M C

2y↑4

That cuts the task down dramatically! Thanks.

Charles Kinzer

2y↑9

I think this video addresses the situation where the edge to be cut off is not straight enough to use as a reference.

Iron man

2y↑45

Good work, only suggestions would be to have support along the left edge if the amount hanging off the left exceeds the amount on the table and off the back edge. Second. Use a larger square. It will allow for greater accuracy and squarer cut

Wesman78

2y↑5

I would like to have seen him double check with the square from the other side once he got over there, but maybe he was just trying to use the factory edge. I would like to see a full size framing square for this.

Peter Owens

2y↑3

Measuring from blade to table edge using a tape is far from ideal. Much better to use a metal rule, cost little more than tapes & you can' beat that accuracy.

W Mathews

1y↑1

Great tip. I have seen a few other jigs using the very straight and sturdy edge of the table - it is an overlooked feature. For me I use the track saw, then perhaps a router and trim bit. I just hate wrestling with a large heavy sheet…. But this is an excellent option without those.

Displaced Redneck

1y↑2

Good tip, short and sweet! If you have a lot of overhang, it helps to place a roller stand under that so you're not fighting that tendency to tip while you're pushing the sheet through the cut.

Lt. Dan

50w

Years ago, my father used the same procedure at his home shop, with cutting down large sheets of plastic. My brothers and I would often help him with this as his home table saw's table was smaller. (When he couldn't do it at the shop where he worked.) It is great to see this method passed on. Great video.

Roy

2y↑3

I use a similar method on my radial arm saw to joint an edge or preserve a natural edge. I built the front table so that the front edge is perfectly parallel to the fence and clamp a straight edge in the same way that is shown in the video. This works best on wide boards using a narrow straight edge I position the carriage with as much of the board on the table as possible.

Ted Rowland

2y↑33

I love this. I submit that this can also be used for making cabinet panels, (typically 34-1/2 in. long), where some home saws only have a 24 in. wide table, And yes there are other ways to accomplish that, (as you stated), but for 2-6 panels, this is a great idea. Not everyone can afford/have the room for a cabinet saw.

Inspire Woodcraft

2y↑19

Or can afford a track saw that's actually decent. Thanks for leaving a rational comment and actually paying attention. Ha!

Skwalka

@Inspire Woodcraft Just an observation: You don't need to worry about the tape hook at the start of the tape messing your measurement, that hook moves a distance precisely calculated to take into account the hook thickness.

Bob Segar

2y↑2

@Skwalka its just hard to place the hook ontop of the board..

Dave Ortwine

2y↑1

@Inspire Woodcraft super sketchy you have a $4,000+ sawstop table saw and woodpeckers tools but don't own a decent circular saw or a track saw... 😂😂😂

MotoDave 3504

1y↑3

@Dave Ortwine or he is showing those that dont have those tools a way they can get stuff done on the saw they have, such as a jobsite saw.

Mick @ Hardtail Gang

2y↑8

What a great trick! I wish I had found this a few weeks ago! Working on building my first cabinet out of plywood using my jobsite table saw and had a few cuts I had to make with a circular saw + guide that inevitably came out less-than-square which just compounded after I kept cutting from it. I've got a lot of cleanup to do. Thanks for the tip!

Rick Fitzpatrick

1y↑1

Thanks Jody, I have watched this video several times in the past and I now find myself in need of putting it into action. I actually lost sleep last night trying figure out how I was going to make this happen. This morning as I was in the shop still being frustrated , this video popped into my head, thus I had to come in to give it another view. Keep up the good work, we appreciate it!

Charles Tubaugh

2y↑3

Great tip for newbies, I learned how to that about 20 years ago. Love seeing it done so flawlessly.

jeffthewhiff

50w

Great idea! I don't have a table saw like the one in the video and would like to trim just 1/4" off from some shelving material I just bought and would like to make the cut as accurate as possible. I have a circular saw and was going to use it to make my cuts as I have three shelves to trim.

Christian's Customs

2y↑17

Insanely useful tip! Would’ve never thought of this one. I’m always amazed at the tips you come up with and share. Definitely keeping this one in my back pocket

Wesman78

2y↑1

Definitely handy for using a smaller saw!

justone

2y↑6

Normally I would use my circular saw guide for a cut like this but I tried this instead. It worked out great. I was able to support the offcut with full control. Thanks!

viperman300

2y↑3

Nice one! This is a great method and a safe one for the large sheet goods. I used to work in a shop with a 52” fence and there still comes a time when you need to make that thin rip off the side of a long sheet. It’s no fun having over 4 ft of waste and a thin rip between the fence and the blade.

Dee Monjure

2y↑2

Awesome! Love it! Will definitely be using it but also that was a crosscut and I saw no to minimal tear-out which makes me ask what kind of blade you’re using. Dude that was flawless!

Wesman78

@Dee Monjure WOW you have very pretty eyes!

veryhandyandy

I faced a similar task back in the 80's, and my solution was to use two Makita 10" table saws (mine and the boss's) bolted to an eight foot oak school table so I could use the saw blade on one table saw and the rip fence on the other table saw to guide the cuts. Another time when faced with having to rip glass-smooth 3/4 MDF shelving in a confined space, I made a 24" x 36" baseplate with a fixed 40" fence for my beloved 7.5" Skil Wormdrive. If you can't move the sheet of plywood, move the saw.

idigbebop

2y↑7

Congrats on your channel. Just watched three of your videos on corner joint splines. They are, unarguably, the best three instructional table saw videos I have seen on YT. Simple, no bs, quick, informative. I hope more sponsors “pay” attention to you and more viewers find your channel. What you are teaching is indispensable. New follower. Cheers.

Cory L. O'Hanlon

1y↑2

That's an awesome concept that I'm sure can be applied across a few different use cases. Thanks a bunch!

Jerry P

Good trick. Could be more setup time if the table edge is not parallel with the blade. You can also use a good straight edge with smooth edge and use a router. The router can give you a more perfect cut than the table saw blade. Although it is only good for shaving off the edge but you can rough cut with the skill saw first.

Bill Parrish

Speaking of thinking outside the box, I've been noodling around in my mind about designing some sort of fence jig that projects down off the bottom of the foot of the circular saw, similar to a tenoning jig riding the rip fence on a table saw, with which you can make the vertical cut for tenons in vertically-oriented rails. This wouldn't be for something that narrow, but perhaps something that could cut a rabbet on the edge of plywood, and instead of cutting all of the rabbet down into the face of the plywood (requiring multiple passes, and requiring cleanup of the ATB blade's ridges), cutting in from the edge (so that one cut from each angle, into the face and also into the edge, would remove the waste from the rabbet). This circular saw jig would first need to be safe, and have a way to loosely clamp to the plywood so as to allow it to slide but not wobble. Several ideas come to mind, from adjustment knobs to slick surfaces to spring-loaded rollers projecting from the surface, to a jig not attached to the saw but to the plywood edge itself. But curious what you think, how you'd solve that. No need to reply, but if you come up with anything video-worthy, I'd certainly be curious to watch.

MrBluegrassfiddler

2y↑41

I think my favorite method of cleaning up an edge on a large piece is to use a trim router and set up a straight edge, and use a flush trim router bit.

VK Milling & Hardwoods

2y↑1

That was my go to until I extended my fence rails out to allow for 60" cuts.

Frank Rizzo from Chicago

2y↑1

100 times safer as well.

Ron

2y↑2

100% agree with this remark. I'm a Retired General Contractor. A router is so much easier and can be used in the field without a table saw. A couple of saw horses, a couple of clamps, a straight edge (I use an aluminum 10' 2 x 4 screed) and a router with the proper bit. Not only is it faster, safer and easier, you get a jointer quality edge every time. If a jointer edge is not needed try a Skil worm drive contractor's saw with the proper blade. Wobble has never been an issue with that kind of saw with me. Also with the proper set up on saw horses you can cut right across the top of the saw horses to easily cut plywood of any length, in any direction with proper support, 8' 12' any foot, no problem with perfect straight cuts.

MrBluegrassfiddler

2y↑1

@Ron Thank you Ron. I have also used this method to make fine adjustments to make doors fit, or shave off a bit from the top and bottom. I have some closet doors that I built that I need to reduce their length to make the guides fit a bit better. And so, when I have time, thats one more on my list to do. When I am doing 1 1/2 thick material, I will use the router and take off a bit more than half way through and then come back with a flush trim bit and get the other side.

Marcel LeMay

2y↑2

@Ron I've been a contractor for 40 years, getting ready for retirement myself. I don't even own a big heavy shop table saw, it just takes up too much real estate in my shop.. I do have a 10" job site table saw that I use If I have many rips to do, I'll bring that to the job. But, honestly, I prefer cutting sheets of plywood with a good straight edge with some clamps and a good corded circular saw, good blade is all you need and good saw horses with 2x4s on top, will get that job done easily, and alone with no help. Struggling with a full 3/4" sheet of finished plywood solo on a table saw is a hassle. As a contractor, I try to travel light. But for guys that are working on a budget, or have limited space, you can get table saw quality cuts on a very small budget and put it all away in a small space. I see so many shop wood workers that don't have a good $120 circular saw but they have a $2000 table saw. I've made lots of Built ins in homes with nothing more than a circular saw, a miter saw, a portable table saw, Most of the time, I don't even need a router.

1 More Replies...

TriPawd

Pro Tip: use a longer piece to clamp under the plywood. Usually twice as long as the plywood and then center them and it will be much easier and straighter.

Joey O

This is great! I have been woodworking for a while now, and I never thought of using that end of my table saw.

Jack Knows

2y↑3

Great demo, I've done this for the very same reasons you explained and it works awesome. Thanks for the demo.

Cletus Tollery

2y↑4

Nice tip! As a cabinet maker of 30 years (I now have saws that will cut this, but before...), I would have used a router, straight edge and clamps to do the same cut. For guys interested in woodworking, it's AMAZING, how many times you will use a GOOD track saw if you spend the money for one! Free hand cuts (odd shapes and angles) and live edge cuts are pretty much made SAFE, and it's EASY to make track jigs for a router or other equipment!

acattoir

Yep. Router.

Samuel Sägesser

You could probably make a fence to clamp onto material and adjust the width. I would use a long aluminum extrusion with a t-slot and two blocks that slide along it for varying lengths of material and that can be clamped to the sides of the material. If you want to get fancy you might even try to incorporate a square into one or both of the clamping blocks, or threaded adjustment to help with accuracy. Just an idea out of my office chair. Thanks for sharing your trick.

Brent Fowler

2y↑6

Smart my man. I've got a DeWalt tablesaw with a 36" rip capacity. And I've never used my fence that far out to make a cut. However, if my shop wasn't 80sq ft. I'm sure I would do bigger projects lol.. Anyhow all that to say, that's smart. Great idea. And I'll definitely keep that in my book of tricks for sure. So thank you.

Will Garmer

2y↑1

Great idea. I'd add one recommendation - if you're cutting something that overhangs your saw table, you should always use something to support the piece to prevent the edge you're cutting from rising up from the blade. There are plenty of how-to vids showing how to make inexpensive outfeed supports, rollers, tables, etc. Even sawhorses will work if they're the same height as your saw table.

Inspire Woodcraft

2y↑1

I don’t know about “always”, but definitely a good idea in general. I’m still designing mine, as I don’t have space for permanent extra support. In this case, the material is flat to the table, but the material has a bow on the end being cut.

csimet

Excellent tip... especially now that I dressed out an edge board on my table saw's outer cast wing for another reason (helps me align my mobile outfeed table). You can even screw on an extra long/removable edge that is much longer than most table saw wings (they are typically only 27"), that will provide even more support when running wider sheets through. I keep a nice straight piece of 1x3 handy that is about 36-40" for this reason.

art v4nd3l4y

2y↑5

I like the style of the videos, going through what you're doing and why in detail. I think these are helpful for the more inexperienced, but you also hear comments saying "I've been doing this for 20 years and never though about that". Liked and subscribed.

BitSmythe

46w

4:07 You can also get a more accurate square by placing a long level against the blade. That extends the plane. Then measure from the level.

plugger410

48w

Great tip. Only one thing, when using the “burning an inch“ strategy, I anticipate you will likely lose that 1/32 accuracy since you didn’t burn the inch when measuring from the blade to the end of the table in the first place.

MySickstring

2y↑11

Nice tip! Thanks for that.
I retired my table saw for any full/half sheet cuts. I got that Kreg rip cut and with my Skil magnesium worm drive and a sheet of rigid foam insulation under it, it’s so much easier.

Brent Shaw

Great tip! Just a note about “killing an inch”…I kill ten inches instead, because then I am working from a zero instead of 1. For instance 4-5/16 becomes 14-5/16. I find it reduces the chance of math errors.

Donald Pratt

I just saw this today, and it was just in time. I had to break down a couple sheets on my little (26” wide table) table saw. It worked great!

Jake Tobin

2y↑4

I tried this last week and it works great. It takes a little extra math, but I was able to make a good straight cut beyond the rip capacity of my jobsite table saw. In fact, it worked so well, that I thought the opposite end was straight, but ended up reversing the board and cutting the opposite end to get a nice square piece.

Doug Reid

2y↑4

That is a great tip to share for those that did not know of it. Luckily for me, my father taught me that trick some 50 years ago and I have used it several times on my small capacity table saw. Since I bought a decent hand held circular saw I prefer to clamp a straight board on top of the stock piece to guide it if I can. My circular saw has no wobble like yours.

1976ClassicCelica

You forgot to mention that you left a bit extra for your straight edge so the plywood doesn't pivot at the end of the cut. Great suggestion. I will most likely use this one day for sure.

Casey Durrans

2y↑50

Dude, that actually is a great method! I never would have thought of that. This is the first time I have come across your channel. Good job!

Southern E-biking

Great idea. To take it even one step further you might let the straight edge go out a little further in the front side of the fence as well engaged before you come to the blade. Great hack though

Pete C

2y↑1

Ingenious! One suggestion: I wouldn't cut anything off the plywood until I knew exactly what size panel I needed. Suppose I needed a panel that was 30 inches and I didn't want to use the factory edge. Your method - new to me - is a great idea. However, I would have marked both ends of my panel at 30-1/8 " and made the cut just as you showed. That way I wouldn't have as much material hanging over the edge of the table. THEN I'd set my fence to the final dimension and cut away the factory edge. However, before making ANY cuts I'd make sure my lines were square by doing a cross corner measurement to make sure the edge I'm keeping is square. Usually they are, but I've seen in rare cases plywood that wasn't square. When selecting lumber that's one thing I always check for at the store. If it's a nice piece but not square either I'll reject it or ask for the manager to offer a discount. Sometimes that works. If no discount then it can go back in the pile for the next unsuspecting termite.

Ken Harrington

2y↑1

Great idea mate, easy to follow and very effective.

Brian Lister

2y↑15

Honestly I love the way your brain works. Whenever I want to do something in a diff way than normal but still very efficient I always come to your channel first. This is Brilliant ! going to be using it today. thanks Jodie

Mickleblade

2y↑2

Me too, I feel a complete idiot that I didn't spot this trick myself...

Kenny Homer

2y↑1

I'll probably use this one day. I've been worrying about my table saw not having enough ripping capacity

Bob D

2y↑4

Thanks! As usual, excellent advice.
The same scheme works for making rip cuts on a radial arm saw.

Gary Monroe

2y↑1

Brilliant! Same issue I have with my contractor table saw. This is definitely a technique I will add to my bag of tricks. Thank you for sharing this.

MarcoTheHammer

Great idea! I’m tooling up to rebuild the interior of the tiny RV that I call home.
Seemingly minor situations like this one can stymie a simple project and cause unexpected pain and progress interruption as the project gets overthought and not much fun!
Thank you.

Gene Takae

2y↑1

Nice video!! I taught myself this trick several years ago. It comes in very handy from time to time.

VeryBadReputation

As an amateur that has build all my furniture and getting ready for a kitchen+ bedroom remodel, this is going to be super useful on my 34in table fence

Dan Stringfellow

Brilliant! Looks like the technique might even work for cross-cutting sheet goods on a small jobsite saw.

Andy Zanto

2y↑9

Two observations: 1) you could set up the same fence but closer to the cut line and use it for a fence for a router with a straight bit - of course this wouldn't work for breaking down sheet goods but it works great for cleaning up edges. 2) using a larger square for setting up the fence will provide even greater accuracy.

Ken NN, VA

2y↑5

Also noticed the plywood sheet was not down hard on the table (7:02 time stamp), so he did not achieve the "squareness" he spoke about early in the video. The circular saw and clamped-on fence would've done just as well.

Etaoin Shrdlu

2y↑1

@Ken NN, VA Either a circ-saw or a router. I'd go with router. Both ways have the advantage of not needing to catch the out-feed. If the plywood reaches its balance/tipping point, it's really difficult to keep aligned. And a router has no skid-plate to wobble.

Michael Bedell

2y↑2

A roller stand would be a great addition to support the work or use workhorses to span rails on. Great idea

SailorJeffy

Great tip for cutting large sheets! For trimming an eighth I would use a flush trim router bit

Richard D Petersen

Nice tip, going to check my saw right now, but I will use the miter slot to check to the edge of the table instead of measuring from the blade.

Terry T

2y↑11

I have fought with trying to make cuts that tests the limits of my fence, and this is an interesting solution to that. I guess you could extend the table edge out, like this, as far as you needed to make this work with pretty wide cuts. Thanks!

Mister Fee

2y↑1

Why would you extend the table out? Wouldn't you just move the wood piece on the bottom of the plywood?

Real Fehlany

2y↑5

Supporting more than a couple feet off the table pulls the panel up off of the blade. A roller stand or two works great for extending the table width

Wesman78

@Real Fehlany if you are worried about it pulling up off of the blade you can clamp a piece of scrap to the fence a little over the height of the material, and bring it in tight enough to the blade to hold the sheet down.

Real Fehlany

@Wesman78 that carries its own risk of pinching the cut piece between fence and blade 🤷‍♂️

Wesman78

@Real Fehlany it could, but I have never seen it happen.

Trevor Dennis

Another good trick and a nice bit of lateral thinking, but you should get yourself a tracksaw. You don't need a plunge saw, or even a super expensive Festool system. I personally use the Bosch Blue 18V tracksaw system with the big saw, and it has changed my life when it comes to breaking down big sheets.

Tim Dyck

2y↑4

If your miter gauge is parallel to your blade u could’ve measured from that and not limited to 8-9” measuring from your blade ,overcoming challenges is so much fun ,awesome job 😎

Nick

I've never forgotten something I heard as a kid... 1/8 out in a foot = 1 ft out in a 100 feet (96)

D Wel

Thought I knew all the table saw tricks, but that's a new one for me. I have sheet metal extensions on my saw so I'll probable need to make a wooden edge with shims, but I'm going to make it with permanent shims, carriage bolts & wing nuts, and a foot longer on each end. Thanks for the tip!

Bruce W. Sims

48w

Safe, Accurate and Economical. Absolutely Love it!

Junkboy888

That looks really useful. The big sled I made years ago only got a few uses. Still easier for me to use my 35+ year of skill saw on a saw horse and a panel trim blade. You'll get No rocking on quality tools, + I don't have that much room on the left side of my table saw. The side of your table saw all so might not be a good reference for your blade. Aliment of the blase is base off the T tracks in the set up of the saw. This might not be a problem because you are all ready clamping a scrap board to that edge of the table and another scrap board to the panel you need to cut. So the accuracy is just down to the set up.

Gilbert Boyer

2y↑3

As usual, your videos are precise and well explained. Well done.

Dean Y

2y↑5

Yup, genius. Used it to trim off 1/8" off a 36" piece of plywood for a drawer bottom on my teeny tiny Makita jobsite saw instead of using a circular saw. Easy, safe and square. THANKS!!!

Tom Nietz

2y↑11

For those without a large table saw. I use a BORA NGX 50” clamp edge, $49 and a 4.5” Porter Cable circular saw. The clamp can be set to any length and the over center cam lock secures the straight edge. A 4.5” saw is much easier to do this kind of cabinetry work. Wish my shop were as clean as yours.

Robert Blodgett

Correct I have the BORA and love it, wish my table saw was that large

Someguy85

2y↑1

Cool trick. Not one I have seen before and I thought that I had seen them all. My go to for this "issue" is straight edge, router and flush cut bit.

Melvin Serrano

Outstanding little hack! My table saw is not as nice as yours but you have given me an idea for a simple upgrade.

Bruce King

Great video! When I cut a larger sheet I always break it down an 1/8 larger because it’s very easy to slip some.

Rad Chander

2y↑6

Thank you for bringing up the often forgotten parallel edge guide in a table saw. I have a craftsman table saw with tabs on top of miter gauge slots, making it difficult to construct runners for the sled. Thanks to an utuber, I built the sled with runners guided by the outside ends of the table, just like the one u have shown. No fancy trial and error to build the perfect runners to run on table slot.

Wendy Torkelson

2y↑1

I would love to know where you found that. My TS is a really old craftsman with the tabbed miter slots, too.

Rad Chander

2y↑1

@Wendy Torkelson don’t remember. The fix is easy. With an angle grinder you can cut off the tabs, if you want to use the table slots for sled rails. Or, you can build a bigger sled with table edges as guides with runners attached to the sled

Seacrest Smith

Thanks, exactly what I needed for shortening a long piece of plywood.

Glen Crandall

2y↑13

Now that I have seen this video I remember doing the same thing at some time in the past. I think I may have used it to cut a diagonal edge. Excellent tip. Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.

Tim Fevens

And this video is a good example of why this is my favourite channel. I run into this problem all the time and I always turn to my wobbly circ saw.
Thank you so much for posting this.

John Coops

Make a simple brace for the rear of your wobbly saw, so that the baseplate is supported in two places, rather than just at the height adjustment hinge.
So, looking from the rear of the saw....
Instead of 1 support like this on your base: ._.||.___.
You have it supported in 2 places, like this: ._.||.___\.
By triangulating it, the wobble and flex will instantly be removed.

Richie Rich

2y↑1

I used blue tape on my guide and material and then superglue the blue tape together. Works great for circular saws and would probably work here too if your clamps get in the way.

John Coops

Absolutely no need for any of that. The clamps cannot ever get in the way, that is the whole idea of doing the cut in this way!

Ron Torres

2y↑1

That so incredibly easy. Amazing that I have never seen it before. Now I can use my table saw more often. Thanks.

Mronehotfirefighter

2y↑1

Unbelievable! Nice job and thank you for sharing this!

djtblizzle

2y↑18

I’m pretty sure you just changed my life. Lol! I have a small “homeowner” size table saw, and now I’ll finally be able to rip larger stock! Thanks!!!

Alex Nolan

2y↑12

Good trick. You could use double sided tape on the backside with a runner in the miter slot for the same cut. It probably wouldn't help much for cutting plywood perfectly in half length wise, but it would work for a 36 inch cut like this.

Jesse Helton

2y↑3

I think the increased distance of the edge of the table vs the miter slot gives more precision. And double-sided tape will have just enough torsion play that it would be easy to wiggle the hanging end of the plywood back and forth as you travel. The clamps seem to provide reliable stability to not have any torsional wiggle, as long as you maintain pressure towards the table edge

Brian Oglow

2y↑1

Good explanation and good idea. Thanks dude👍
Goes to show there are sooo many ways to do something the right way.

Don Bell

Nicely done! Everything is easy once you know how to do it! Thanks

Brandon Taylor

That edge guide circular saw cutoff jig works a lot better if you make the same jig but use a router and a straight bit instead. You get a finished edge with none of the wobble of a circular saw.

mikalja

The trick is great and simple!

Ruler's hook is moving by the depth of the hook. So when you measure by putting the hook outside you will get exactly the same as when you put the hook against the edge on the inside.

John Coops

You didn't pay attention did you? He wasn't measuring from the edge of the board.

Rand Sipe

2y↑1

You would love a track saw. They are essential for panel work IMO. My Mikita track saw leaves a smooth edge and the scoring feature eliminates chipping in melamine panels. The rubber strip on the track makes for perfect alignment and zero tear out. Once you get a track saw you will wonder how you got along without it.

bertaboy

2y↑1

I agree 100%. The track saw also let's you use a crosscut jig to make sure that your cuts are not only straight, but square. It's also a lot safer to move the saw over a 100# sheet than a 100# sheet over the saw.

I found a Makita track saw on Craigslist, but otherwise was ready to order a 110/120v Bosch from Axminster and replace the plug. If you look at the parts list, it's identical to the North American model for everything except the depth gauge and power plug. The motors are identical parts.

"Depends on how square you need to be" Aka "Square enough" ie "Not actually square"

Jeff Hildreth

@bertaboy I would have used the square on both sides of the sheet before I tightened the clamps. Otherwise excellent technique and video.

Inspire Woodcraft

I would love one. Actually I've wanted one for a long time. Just don't have the $600+ for one right this second.

Inspire Woodcraft

@bertaboy The only issue with that is that if the two edges aren't parallel, you are going to fight it every step of the way. Best practice, from a logical point of view, is to always reference from the same edge.

bertaboy

@Inspire Woodcraft That's why you would also need some parallel guides (which are also easy enough to make, using that table saw you have and a handheld router.) Just like with table saws, the constant for all woodworking tools is jigs, jigs, jigs 🙂

1 More Replies...

JeffLee 67

2y↑7

This is how I've made cuts that were too wide for my table saw for years. When your fence only goes to the right 36", you have to improvise, adapt, and overcome.

Dominic Inferrera

Bravo!! Great tip, and to hasten the setup, one could make a jig exactly the length of the blade to table edge you measured to aid in clamping your guide to the work, since that measurement never changes one you figure it out.

Terry Mason

2y↑1

Great work around. Unfortunately for me it would require more space than my small workspace has. I would need to use the router method talked about in the comments.

Cyrus Persia

sir, you are a genius, I have struggled so much with cases like this, indeed very practical advice and a demonstration of intellectual prowess.

CapaldiCrew!

2y↑1

I really like this idea, it's pretty clever. Personally, if I were going to just clean up an edge, I think I would clamp the straight edge on how you did, but I would use my router.

Jim DeVito

I used this today! It worked out great. Thank you!!!

dimbertd

2y↑9

This is a great presentation of a classic solution to the 'small table' problem.

Well done.

Larry Minichello

2y↑1

Simple yet elegant! Thanks!

Bill Parrish

I'm glad to see this right now. I think I saw it before, but must have forgotten it, so this is a fortuitous reminder. I have a couple of 48"+ pieces of 3/4" sanded plywood I want to half-lap together end-to-end, to make a piece longer than 8'. Normally, I'd do that lap joint with a router and straight edge, but the bit I like to use is worn, and I don't really want to get another at this time. I also don't want to use the circular saw, for the reasons you mentioned, and because I want this to be an invisible finish cut and seamless under paint, and dressing it up with sanding, etc., isn't something I'm really set up to do.

This method gives me another option I hadn't thought of, so I'll check it out and make sure I feel safe doing the cut this way (plus it sure would be nice to use my dado stack in the table saw and do fewer passes). I especially like the idea that the fence can extend past the edge of the wood and fully engage the table edge before the wood gets to the blade, stabilizing the cut very well. I would need to rest the overhanging end on an outfeed table of the same height as the saw. And in order to firmly engage the fence against the table edge, I'm thinking I'd like to clamp a second board, like the fence but on top and further away, to use as a handle for my left hand to pull the sheet firmly to the right and keep the fence tight against the edge.

Great idea! Thanks!

dave r

Brilliantly simple. I’ll use this tip. Thank you.

DJ AUDIBLE

Fantastic! You kept me intrigued the entire time. Most people would have lost me about halfway.

bo cooper

Nice,.great idea and very clear. I just think IF one used a typical 2’ square-it’d be a lot more acurate

Laura Marshall

2y↑3

The thing I would change, because I'm not strong enough to hold the plywood steady (and I'm really short) is to put a couple of rolling supports under the other end of the material. This is really cool.

Robert Pearson

Nice method. I would suggest that if the end of the table saw wing wasn't square to the blade you could add a piece of steel or aluminum bar by drilling and tapping, them shim it into square. I think I might give this a try, I run into this quite a lot.

Harry Karanassos

You have invented a perfectly good auxiliary fence. Excellent tip.

S Doitla

2y↑2

Great timing for this video. I have 6 5 foot long cabinet panels to cut. (The sheet goods were not cut square at the mill. They are off by 5/32.)

Wesman78

Wow that's probably the worst I've heard of, I had a bunch of T-111 paneling that was off like 3/32, and I thought that was bad.

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