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05 running_master
the zissous Lyrics

No lyrics text found for this track.

The lyrics are frequently found in the comments by searching or by filtering for lyric videos

Comments from YouTube:

The Daninator

3y↑56

I prefer method number two, because my wallet can handle that!

The Daninator

@Frank Day nice!!

Frank Day

2y↑1

@TheDaninator the second free method worked perfectly for me. Thanks for this video.

Frank Day

2y↑1

@John P only 20 mph for me on a dirt road a mile and a half away. I activated the anti-lock system several times, parked it and waited till yesterday so my Son could be the break man for me. I bled all 4 wheel brake cylinders into a clean glass jar bleeder I made so I could collect the fluid for recycling and reduce cleanup. I bled them until all air and dirty fluid was remove and I got clean fluid in the jar. The difference was amazing. Obviously the Chevy Dealer tech that replaced all my brake lines for me didn’t “burp” the anti-lock brake pump as I had spongy brakes until yesterday. Now I have a full pedal and effortless braking.

John P

Roughly how fast was the truck going for you to get the abs to active?

rick james

2y↑2

hell yes thank you for the great info I will always do this now and teach others your awesome!!!....I used it on a BMW

Stephen Maguire

3y↑23

This totally works, I spent a sleepless night before finding this clip. When I turn out of my driveway the main road is to the left, and to the right is half a mile of farm track, ideal for in line skidding. After doing intermittent hard braking to the farm and back I bled both front brakes and car was sorted. Thanks for the money saving tip, even works in the UK.

James Portente

3y↑8

Excellent video. I couldn’t figure out why my back brakes wouldn’t bleed. I found this video and solved the problem. Thank you.

Jason Carlucci

2y↑6

You are the man!!! I was having the exact same problem with my son's 07 Mazda 6. I used the manual method and had the same success you did. I would have never in a million years been able to do it without this video! Thank you!!!

Abel porto

I have same problem whit my bronco that caliper piston is stuck I replace brake pads and today I put new master cylinder and still nothing that front tires are hard to turn by hand and my bronco have those Abs module

Alexander Fraser

3y↑3

Excellent video mate, very easy to follow and you explained it well, it’s exactly what am needing to do on my Audi A4 TDi tecknik I took the calliper off to rebuild it (sticky piston) but my wee seal on the pipe leaked and all the fluid drained from the car so I tried normal bleeding to no luck but after reading and this video it should be sorted! That’s after I went and replaced the master cylinder thinking I’d turned the seals when bleeding it! Nightmare of a car! Never again will I get a car that needs a bastard computer to bleed the brakes!!

razorsharpbt

3y↑3

I noticed when one of my ABS wheel sensors on my 2001 Silverado was bad, the ABS would activate every time at around 7 MPH when coming to a stop, so unplugging the wheel sensor should accomplish this also. It would be more controlled than skidding the vehicle. Thanks for the video!

Bill Smith

2y↑4

Great tip . I recommend using a 6 point bleeder wrench or socket on the bleeders . Most 1/4" drive sockets work fine . I even wire brush the threads and add a thin film of Never Seize .

John McQuarrie

2y↑4

Absolutely worked! Thankfully it snowed the night before so no problem activating the abs on the ice. Farted the bubbles out, bled lines, brakes are good to go.
Thanks for the video!

Tee Time

2y↑5

Found your video today while bleeding my Acura TL. Front Driver caliper wouldn't bleed. Drove that sucker to an open field did about 30-40mph slammed on breaks. Said a little prayer. And just like you said it worked!! TY so much!

Keith Bender

2y↑1

Great video. Vacuum bleeding with a hand pump is good but you gotta climb under and bleed brakes at different intervals to work out trapped air..and these chevy can hold a "lot of air". The last method you showed really forces air to the correct chamber in the calipers so it can be bled right, and much faster....great video

Igor Moiseev

3y↑3

Just had a same problem on 02 Sierra 1500. Replaced all the lines but the air got stuck inside the abs unit. Method #3 ROCKS! Thank you A LOT for saving me a bunch! Liked and subscribed! Keep up the amazing work man!

matthewl67

2y↑7

Bi-directional scan tools are awesome! I’m not familiar with the Zurich brand tools, but it looks similar to other modern scan tools I’ve played with. The one I have is an autel and does normally dealer level functions on everything I’ve run into working on my rigs over the past year or so I’ve had it. I like that they aren’t limited to one manufacturer and I’ve used it on my buddy’s rigs, (ford, Chevy, dodge, Toyota, VW, and Honda off the top of my head) and easily performed stuff like a fast learn on my Allison, programming injector flow rates (duramax) smart key programming (multiple vehicles) and a FICM flash on a 6.0 PSD. GM dealer wanted $200 for the fast learn alone. I did not spend the extra $100ish to get the wireless capability like the one in the video, but I wish I had. I’ll have to do some reading on the Zurich units. Anyone who does more than change oil and basic maintenance on obd2 vehicles could greatly increase their capabilities with a bi-directional scan tool. No-directional is the key though. Cheap scan tools (usually about $150 and less) are generally not more than code readers and I never saw the need to get one as autozone and similar stores will scan codes for free, as long as you can get the vehicle there. Bi-directional scan tools allow you to send commands to the vehicle’s computer and do things like temporarily shut down injectors and command certain functions for diagnostics that you would not normally be able to do and monitor the result. Yes, I know you can unplug injectors manually, but I’m just giving an example. You’ll have to do some research to ensure the scan tool will do the things you need, and read carefully as there is a lot of marketing wank in all of them. I contacted autel directly to ensure the $1100 tool would do a fast learn as it wasn’t clear, and even with the vin they didn’t seem positive they had one that was about $800 that did not according to my reading on forums and such. Expect to pay $800+ and the ones I looked at had a yearly subscription of $300+. Mine came with a year ‘free’, but the subscription is not required to use the tool beyond that year. It’s only necessary for vehicles and flash capabilities on vehicles newer than your current update. So keep that in mind. I avoided buying a bi-directional tool for years and intended to purchase a Chinese knockoff GM tech 2 that would only work on GM rigs of specific years as that’s most of what I work on in my spare time, and the T2 wouldn’t do what I need on the newer can bus GM trucks at that. Fortunately, two bad experiences with shady sellers led me to the Autel MS906 (I think) and it’s worked well on every vehicle I’ve used it on. I’m not paid or anything, so this isn’t an ad. There’s other brands I’m sure that would do everything I’ve needed, but I got a discount on the autel and am very happy with it. It seems there are a lot of people who don’t flush their brake fluid regularly, and a lot that do don’t usually activate the abs module to get the old hydroscopic fluid out of that unit which is important to do. I did it the same way Dan did for years though. I like squalling out the factory bleeders for speed bleeders as I’m normally working on stuff by myself and haven’t bought a power bleeder yet. Good video man, and good information. I found your channel while trying to explain this stuff to a buddy who’s not close enough for me to just do it and sent him this video.

Julian Fell

Do research before rushing out for one of these tablet scanners. Some have to have software activated. This can cost as much as the unit and it is only good for 2 or 3 years. Then you have to buy it again, and again. Like a computer with microsoft software. You have to buy or lease it after paying for the computer itself.

Bill Smith

There are now scan tools in the $ 700 to $ 800 range that do this . Think Tool , Top Don and X Tool D8 . There is also an X Tool that works with a phone or lap top for less , I believe the A30 Pro . These all are bi directional . Just research that it does all the tests on your vehicle and check how much updates cost . Scanner Danner recently had a 10% off code on one of these and a Toyota mechanic " The Car Care Nut " had 8% off on another .

Jeff Sunnyside

3y↑18

This video saved me a ton of money, I was told that the whole abs system needed replaced. Thank you Daninator!

Hunter 4559

2y↑4

I just repaired one of my brake lines going from the master cylinder to the ABS module on a 2001 Silverado. I just cracked the fitting loose at the ABS module and did a bleed from that point. Worked perfect! No need to bleed the brakes at the calipers!

The Daninator

That works! Excellent tip!

Chaz W

worked like a charm on my rear brakes. thank you for making this

HavocsRev3nge

2y↑1

Thanks for the video! I just bought a 99 v6 mustang with the brakes not working and the guy said it was the proportioning valve. I did some troubleshooting and found that the most likely cause was air in the abs module so I found your video and did what you suggested on my gravel driveway. Worked like a charm and now I just need to bleed all the brakes again.

Frank Day

2y↑2

I’ve had this issue since paying our local Chevy Dealer $1,300 to replace all brake lines after one of the lines below the master cylinder rusted out. Will be doing this procedure later today. This video earned my subscription. Thanks.

geofreak75

2y↑3

Ok guys, I did this in a 2007 Chevy Silverado 2wd LT. I just drove it around the yard and field next door and shoved the gas pedal in several times. Took between 5 to 10 minutes to make the pedal have some resistance. Fluid came out of bleeder as normal! I couldn't believe it actually worked! Good luck, folks!

Vince Majestyk

1y↑1

Thanks for the tip! I need to do this and the 'cheapest' scan tools are super expensive for such limited use.

TheCirrostratus

3y↑1

Hi Danny, I like your Sierra and bit by bit is getting in better condition👌👍 Your steel rims could look great with chrome covers✌

Ben I

3y↑1

2nd option..Worked on a early model ford ranger. Did it on gravel about 9 times. My problem was passenger rear line had no fluid running through it. Could bleed all except for it. After the abs physical reset. Fluid comes out. 👍 I appreciate it! Now time to find out if the abs is going to go off or will I have to get the code n troubleshoot.

Jose :El Gallo: Velasquez

3y↑1

Thanks man , this is exactly the info i was looking for!!! It works on my 2005 silverado!!

davegt27

3y↑1

this is a great video, I had added speed bleeders and i was about to remove them but I will now use this $129 ABS tool I bought last week, hopefully that will fix my problem

Ronald Smith

2y↑1

I have done this on my hyundai tucson 2lt 2006 works 100% . Drove about held brakes a bit harsh about 6 times , it released immediately. Thanks brother you helped alot , gratefull .

Charles J Villalobos Sr

3y↑1

Hey thanks for the assistance, worked like a charm. I'll add it to my archives.

DragonBlade

3y↑2

Very helpful thank you. Needed this for my 98 k1500

St. Michael the Archangel

3y↑1

Thank you for the tip.

It snowed earlier this evening, so I went out there and kept slamming on my brakes. The car slid while the brakes were fully engaged, but I don't think the ABS came on. 😫 I didn't see the ABS light coming on.

What a penance it is to have spongy brakes.

james beta

The ABS system might be disabled entirely by the computer, due to the system failing whatever tests it does. So you may not get this method to work if that's the case.

Stan Weiler

3y↑5

Thank you for this invaluable information. I can't tell you how much I appreciate you sharing this information. God will richly bless you..

Lennox

3y↑1

You very much welcome !

Swooosh

2y↑1

Yeah man, looks like activating the abs did the trick, got a couple of good sharts out of the brake line, pedal feels much better now. We have some snowy streets right now so timing was good. Thx

Taylor Sellers

2y↑1

Dear god thank you for this, had issues for a year now

Samuel Smith

3y↑1

You the man,I have the same problem, getting on it tomorrow.Thank you.

razorsharpbt

Did it work for you?

BTD

1y↑1

Have used method #2 on my '94 Chevy G20 van a couple times after replacing calipers once and master cylinder, brakes work good.

JJ

3y↑1

Informative video, thank you, I prefer the second/third method then bleed the brakes

COno

2y↑1

Nice! Same problem.
I'm trying this on mine.

Mr Smith

3y↑2

When you were driving and slamming on the breaks to activate the ABS, did you have the bleeding nipple cracked open a wee bit or closed completely?
I am wondering how the air block could clear if the nipple was closed completely, because there would be nowhere for the fluid to escape to let the air out.

Donald Painter

3y↑3

The air escape from the abs module into your brake lines you have to bleed your brakes after you do this

Gerald Bermudez

1y↑1

Great advice very helpful I have snap on scan tool and used the function and bleed the air out of the system.

AUDIO 2 AUTO

1y↑2

You can buy many $100 bi directional scan tools now a days and activate the abs module. You can also turn the vehicle on and stomp on the brakes with the bleeder out and it will definitely come out. The vacuum assist brake booster helps alot.

Gerald Paine

3y↑1

Thanks for the info....Doing a rear Brake Conversion (Drum to Rear Disc) and could not bleed the brakes...Luckily the truck was already on the lift at the shop so I'll use the "Scan tool" option to release the air from the ABS pump..!..(Thanks for the shared knowledge..!!!!

FIRDAUS RAVINDAR

2y↑1

Thank you for posting this valuable video. I am going to try this on my Mitsubishi.

Juan Carlos Lozano

great video! My car is FWD, so I'll lift front tires and do the procedure. Thanks!

charles l

2y↑1

You saved my brothers ass…… and mine because I am the one working on his shot box 😂 thanks man

Untouchablecustoms 2.0

Great video very helpful!!

Go Cro

2y↑2

I just did this to my 2013 Sierra 1500. It worked!!! I changed rear hubs, shoes, pistons and front rotors and pads. Bled the air, still spongey. I adjusted the shoes to react on the drum a little harder for easier braking. Took it to an industrial area, drove at speed, jumped on the brakes activating ABS about 10 times. I now have 1" of travel in the pedal!!! Solid AF brakes. Thankyou!!!

The Daninator

@Go Cro yes, it wouldn’t hurt to bleed em again

Go Cro

2y↑1

In your opinion, do i need to bleed the brakes again?

The Daninator

Well done!!

Whodat? NUNYABIZ

I think this is exactly my problem on my 99 K2500 suburban. I get the ABS light intermittently coming on and a spongy pedal. Going to try method #2 and see if this works. After that a full flush of all brake lines (nasty) and then it should be good! Will let you know!

john jkizer

Thanks for the video.

My question is when flushing the brake fluid from my friends car I cannot get fluid to come out of any of the 4 wheels, if it was only one wheel that wasn’t bleeding I know that it would be likely a bad caliper but on all four wheels, could it be the abs unit that giving problems or master brake cyclinder. Thanks

JBart812

3y↑4

This is the exact same scenario I have except that I don't have enough brakes to activate the ABS system.

Anthony Perez

Wait for snow then find a parking lot

William Johnson

3y↑2

Thanks bro ran into that for first time ever, am 59, & always done my own work on what ever needed to be done on my vehicles figered driving it would do the trick but wasn't sure ? Thanks again .

J Gt

thanks for sharing your knowledge

Serena P.

I'm actually having the same issue today with 2001 Chevrolet blazer 4.3 changed the hub assembly and removed the caliper replaced the pads and now I'm barely getting any fluid during bleeding. I'm assuming by your video I have air in the ABS module.

Eric Lakota

2y↑1

I'm having same problem wish I could go try this

Ronald Scott

Nice vid! If none of the bleeders are open, where’s the air going? Would it ruin the process if I did open the bleeder(s)? (‘02 Tahoe w/scan tool).

Lakario Davis

3y↑2

Damn this might be my problem. I've changed every part in my jeep grand Cherokees brake system except the abs pump and module. I've confirmed that the pump works though even though I've never heard it in my life simply because I've never slipped. I'm going to have to find somewhere to test it off-road. But that's going to be super hard to do seeing how it's not road legal yet and I'm in the city lol.

Mike Hawk

3y↑1

That's how I got air in my system. I replaced 1 caliper because it was sticky. By replacing it,I introduced air into the system. I bled the crap out of the system. Probably used 5 big bottles of fluid and they still didn't work right. I didn't know what was happening so I started replacing stuff. Master cylinder,the other caliper and both rear wheel cylinders. I unknowingly introduced too much air into the system to use the slam on the brakes method. Ended up taking it to the dealer and have them look at it. They bled the brakes with a bi-direcional scanner. My brakes have never been better after that. The mechanic explained why and how I got so much air in my braking system. Next time I change a caliper or wheel cylinder,I'm going to pre- fill the new part. Then disconnect the line from the old part,then quickly connect it to the new part. As for the Master cylinder,first bench bleed it then take the lines off the old master cylinder and switch them one at a time.

OVERALL PAUL

3y↑2

This did the trick on my buddy's 2010 Malibu and saved us a bundle

Kirby Road

I'm having the same problem, but I only changed the calipers I never unhooked the abs. I took it out on a long deserted stretch of road and I hit the brakes firmly and it finally activated the abs. Then after 4-5 cycles it started to pump up a little. I bled the front brakes again and it is perfect now.

a2z farm

1y↑2

Thanks wonderful information have a blessed day

Richard Wallinger

Hi your ABS issues sound similar to my sinking pedal issue .. on my Citroen C5 saloon car . I have replaced front and rear brake pads . sucked out the old fluid from master cylinder reservoir and Vacuum bled all four corners . The brakes were excellent prior to my diy servicing . I am a super competent 77 year old ex Donnington GT championship winner. My Foxwell NT 630 PRO.scan tool has ABS bleed function . Not sure if I got my head around that . but now the brakes sort of work but light pressure make for a slight pull to the right . a more aggressive stop on dry tarmac returns a gliding along slowing down , easing the pedal pressure and the brakes grab momentarily . I believe the ABS unit is somehow upset at my vacuum bleeding ., maybe retracting the caliper pistons has upset the normal operation of the ABS valves and pistons . Like you I have only experienced a weak stream of brake fluid when bleeding . Almost as if there is a pressure valve restricting the flow of brake fluid .. I am convinced that the scan tool will sort the problem but i am a mechanic and havent got my head around the scan tools full capabilities . Surely there is a factory default setting for all ABS modules . I haven't found a video showing me haw to reset my ABS .

J. Hunto's Garage

3y↑2

This was EXACTLY the problem with my '99 Suburban. Paid to have it bleed once, worked great right after but it came back (mushy pedal). So annoying! I hope this takes care of it for you for good. I sold my truck and bought a 2014 Silverado. No issues, yet.

Shawn P

@The Daninator Same problem here.Could a pressure bleeder bleed the abs modulator valve?

The Daninator

So far, so good!

Jordan C

2y↑1

Very good DIY... well explained and good humor... Daninator!

Ted Thornton

2y↑1

Hoping this works on 98 Frontier tomorrow morning . Thanks

Big Red Johnson

2y↑3

Foxwell sells a scan tool that sucks, for around $150, but it will activate the abs module for bleeding brakes, you can hear pump run which is what you want to happen, but after that it gives you a message that it can't communicate with vehicle, as far as I am concerned it already did, my module was activated, which was what I wanted to happen

Daniel Boone

I work on all my own stuff and usually on limited funds. So my 96 Dodge Ram1500 has this same problem with the brakes system. So I'm going to try this out thanks for the video good info for do it yourself guys like me.

Charles Becker

2y↑2

There’s a couple ways to activate the pump and bleed your brakes one is get a scanner and activate ABS system but you have to make sure you have no ABS codes or it will not turn on and if you have active codes you have to fix them first to get a one-man bleeder system it will get all the air out or you could get them on Amazon they are very cheap you don’t have to have a expensive one and on GM’s if you do not have a scanner just turn the key on that will activate the pump to and allow the system to open up so you can bleed it or have it running

Donald Painter

3y↑1

I own 3 scan tools but I've always used method ,2 because it undoubtedly works

Michael Whelan

Great idea except that unless you can lock all four wheels there could still be air in some part of the circuit. ...

pete

Awesome.. thanks for sharing

Gene Sewell

2y↑1

Thats how its done .i watched your video and was going to suggest this if you had a differnt method .ha
good job dan you saved a bunch of people lots of money !

Ishnifus Meadle

3y↑2

I just had to drop 880(2weeks pay)on fixing abs issue. Threw codes for bad pump shorts and some other module code (ive forgotten now). Managed to secure a used unit from the scrap yard, salvage enough hardware between the old n used units, reflowed the module solder, sealed, swapped pumps, did a bunch of line repairs/splices (most of this in the freezing rain), and despite bleeding, then country boy bleeding the abs couldnt get it working right (and no my master cylinder never ran dry, i plugged the lines). Due to not having more time (and ot being my sole vehicle) had to take to mechanic......a dealership no less. Because none of the shop mechanics had the software to reprogram a new module....however at least its done now.....

Hungry Bird

2y↑1

I ll come back and report my findings. I’ve been wrenching for years on my own cars . Talked to a mechanic who said did you stomp in the brakes ? Now I know what he meant .

Joe Quitone

2y↑1

Thanks for info. Great video.

The Daninator

Glad it was helpful!

Tim Vose

3y↑1

Is it possible you may have to do this more than once to get the air pocket out?

The Daninator

3y↑1

Yes, it's possible.

Billy Lumpkin

2y↑1

Having the same issues only on the rear of my nissan frontier 2002. Get fluid from the front brakes but not the rear brakes

AutoSpa Valeting & Detailing

Nice job I have a similar issue on a Mk4 Golf 4Motion V6 soft brake pedal bled it loads including the master cylinder and clutch line new pads and discs slide pins all greased and two new rear callipers so think the abs has air trapped ? Did use a pressure bled system and did notice one rear calliper the flow wasn’t as strong, maybe a bad flexi?

Wackey

Thanks great video

dan moore

3y↑3

I air bleed my bakes with 20# of air pressure in to the master! Works great!

Chris Mounts

Please explain this method

nodrog321

3y↑1

if you use the tool to initiate the ABS test, do you need to open any bleeders? Or run the test, and then after that bleed each corner normally?

The Daninator

3y↑1

I didn't open any bleeders, then bled brakes as usual.

dave walker

3y↑1

Weak stream? Sounds like a personal problem to me,might be an underlying problem here.

Jimbo Telegraphis

2y↑1

I fixed mine with spreading the crimped rubber line holder apart. Turns out that over time rust squeezes the hose so tight in that crimped area that it would not allow fluid to return when you release the brake pedal. saved hundreds.

Dan Knitz

3y↑2

I've got a 2000 1500 Silverado and noticed my brakes poor performance prior to this incident. I had to slam on the brakes to avoid a accident. My brake pedal now goes to the floor and seem spongy. I do not have any leaks in the lines. I assumed that the condition of the brake fluid was maybe my problem by pulling moisture and air into the system. So I removed all fluid from the master cylinder and bled lines to remove all the old dirty fluid. I did notice my front pads were thin so I replaced front pads and rotors. I cannot get any air from any lines what so ever. I removed master cylinder thinking that was faulty or had air in it. That checks out ok. Boy i sure hope this does the trick! I'm at wits end to say the least and have spent all weekend on trying to get the brake pedal from going all the way to the floor..... Ugh... I'll try this on my next day off and hope it takes care of my sponge pedal... Thanks for posting this!

Dan Knitz

Any improvement on your brake issue?

Claasic

@Dan Knitz thank you, I actually found today that my calipers were installed incorrectly with the bleeder valve at the bottom. I’m gonna fix them and try this to see if I can get my pedal to stop going all the way in by bleeding and trying the trick out

Dan Knitz

2y↑1

@Claasic my condition has improved alot. I took the truck out and found the smoothest tracks that I could find and going over them at 30 miles an hour or so I hit the brakes and activate the anti-lock system. I did this for to five times. Actually that improved the pedal issue that I was having but I can tell that they are still spongy and that I still have air in them. At least now it's not going all the way to the floor like it was. I need to bleed them out again to see if I can get any air out of them now. But I would suggest taking the truck out and activating the anti-lock system hopefully that will help like it did mine. Let me know

Claasic

Any updates on your issue I’m currently the same

Lester Smart

I like....thanks man! I have to bleed my 1998 buick lasabre by myself off the brake master cylinder tommarow...Guess I will use my pry bar and car seat to bleed....just gonna crack both loose at same time on master cylinder and re tighten when pedal is down.....repeat over several times....thank god i bought line wrenches!!!! Its still a big task though.....can it be done with engine off I wonder! Cause if its an ABS problem.....Maybe I neeed to activate it first to burb the air out of system fully!

David Conway

I changed the abs line but new line is solid not the flex braided, will that line break without the flexibility?

metalmaniaxx

3y↑4

That's a nightmare location for the abs to be located..

Jim Killen

Thanks for the information..

D. A.

Great tip! Thank-Q

Jose Peixoto

2y↑1

next, i would try leaving the bleeders just a tiny bit cracked open, and try it the same on the leaves over a few feet just to see if some air comes out
then go back and collect all the droppings

Ryeguy413

2y↑1

I understand what you're thinking but your theory is incorrect... Leaving the bleeder open will allow air to enter the system after brake pedal is dispensed

Northern Living

3y↑1

What if it was the rear brakes like what I'm having?

Suzanna Dorantes

I just saw your video. I should have done the work myself, because the mechanic crashed into his own truck when my brakes failed BECAUSE he didn't get the air out and the sound kept clicking. He stepped one the gas and went fast when he was test driving it and crashed my car into his!

Arka Sengupta

3y↑3

Hello Sir. My ABS failed twice, pedal collapsed all the way till floor. I bled all the brakes , but the driver side rear brake won't just bleed.

Saw your video. Took the car on a grassy patch, activated ABS for about 10 times. Now it's not failing anymore. BUT... The rear brake still doesn't bleed. What to do now? Shall I bleed the other 3? Mechanic says it's the cylinder that has to be changed

Arko Sengupta

3y↑1

Yeah the line was choked, and fault from the ABS distributor. It's remedied now

The Daninator

3y↑1

There may be an obstruction in the line or cylinder like the mechanic mentioned.

takkikayo

May I know if loosened the bleeding screw before doing the skidding? Because mine is only on the front right side is not bleeding, the rest are okey

MaNiaCaL MONSTeR

Wait a minute... The whole entire reason why I am replacing one of my brake lines as I now believe, is that I hit the brakes too hard and blew a break line. So, if I did this method wouldn’t that just be taking a chance of blowing one or more brake lines by slamming on the brakes???????

Michael Holland

If your lines are that rusty, change all of them! It's better than rear-ending someone!

frank koppen

3y↑3

better to blow a line in a safe place , like he did, than in traffic . if your lines are that bad they should be replaced.

Altair Ibn-La Ahad

3y↑1

The Autel MaxiCheck PRO will cycle your ABS pump and it only costs $199 on Amazon. I bought one for this (and I needed a scanner anyways)

neal baker

1y↑1

Great now I need an acre of land just to fix my brakes but, it's fun work lol.

Ryeguy413

I recently had to replace the primary 1/4 in. Line on my 03' Tahoe,was able to get fluid freely to the rear and to the RS front but the driver side is a no-show! I'm going to see if I can get that ABS module to activate using your "Field tested" method... I'll throw up another comment on the verdict... I've been scratching my head, thanks for the idea!💡

bomark 2002

Man I need some rich friends!!!!
UPDATE:
We did not know that on the newer trucks you have to hook them to a computer to purge and bleed the ABS Module, so be prepared when you put something new on concerning the brakes and have to bleed them. You will be finding a RICH FRIEND that has a computer that can bleed them or taking it to the shop, actually prob hauling it to the shop

Deandra Murph

3y↑1

Thanks for this last trick that did the trick

TC hogworks

2y↑1

My abs module has a bleeder on it. But I’ve never bled it there. Another Ford F-250 I had the abs module went bad. Dealer only part. $350. I just took some brake line and went around the a bs module. After bypassing the abs module I had better brakes than ever. I have a 30 foot gooseneck I pulled behind that truck with a gvw of 14,000 lbs that the electric brakes never did work. The truck brakes was so good and stopped the trailer loaded so well I never did fix the trailer brakes. I pulled a John Deere 450 dozer everywhere with that truck and trailer. I believe those abs take away from your braking power. They definitely regulate how much pressure you can push on your brake pads and shoes if you’ve got them on the back. To high of pressure opens a valve inside the module and letting fluid pressure bypass the lines going to the wheels. .
I wonder if this guy ever bleed his brakes with a mighty vac? I’d say they sucks the air out of a abs module. Plus you don’t blow fluid everywhere. That’s the only way I can bleed brakes in my shop . The only way to bleed motorcycle and atv brakes. Pull the bleeder out clean it up, inside and out. Rub thick grease around the threads . Use a clear vinyl hose ( to see when no more air is coming out of the system) on the bleeder to the catch base on the mighty vac. Pump it up. I believe they suck the air out of the abs module. I’ve never had a customer return or say anything after replacing lines caliber and other brake parts. Around $40 at Harbor Freight for a mighty vac. Many uses around the shop. Heck of a lot better than the bottle and hose crap on the snap-on truck for $70 for the small one.

Matter of fact I know the Mighty Vac will suck any air in a abs module out. I replaced a front module about 6 months ago on a 2017 Ultra Limited. Over the years we’ve rebuild many front caliber off bikes with abs system. We’ve never had any problem bleeding any that I can remember

3 Wheels & A Block

3y↑4

I am going to have to use plan B, that is a cool trick!

trevor Byron

Does abs light on dash go off after brakes are bled and air Pocket is gone?

Dave George

Must remove air 1st of forget abs motor/pump making pressure.

K Kampy

Do GM's have prostates? Weak flow.... could you do the same thing but hit the parking brake to lock the rears to activate the ABS pump?

Patrick Neill

08 Buick Lucerne CX. Sir, I replaced a busted brake hose (to the drivers side caliper) and nothing, I mean nothing comes out of the bleeder screw. Pedal to the floor no pressure really. Replaced master cylinder, primed as instructed and installed properly. Nothing, running or not, pedal to the floor. When running I gave it a couple of short pumps to try and get a feel for what was happening and then I see fluid running down the brake booster. Abs control module? Brake booster? I’m not a mechanic and am strapped right now. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

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