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Comments from YouTube:

@jamesmorrison7847

2y↑131

I've installed more than 1 million sq ft of Ardex K-15 self leveling underlayment in New York city rehab projects. Hat's off to you for thinking of a new way to dispense the mix, although it has some bugs to work out. On big projects we used a concrete pump and gauge rakes set to 1/4 inch to guide the mix where it needs to go. We then went over it lightly with a long handled type of float to break the surface tension and allow it to flow better. Once it cures you are always going to get tiny hairline cracks that are actually mostly a cosmetic issue, and not a structural problem. It should be sealed with a clear water based matte urethane because it will continuously dust off and you will always have it on your feet if you don't. These materials were designed to go under finished flooring, and not to be the actual floor.

@bcarl10101

2y↑1

Do you mind sharing what sort of concrete pump you used? I have tried searching online for something similar and have only found very large scale industrial equipment.

@StefanThePro

1y↑7

@@bcarl10101 concrete pumps tend to be big industrial machines. There aren’t many small pumps.

@andrewfreeman88

1y↑5

At the end of the video he used a BEHR sealer is that the same as the matte urethane or something different.

@robindegu7294

would you recommend that product for a DIYer? considering this instead of LVP (i have some really bowed wooden subfloors)

@honestlyforreal6304

1y↑2

@bcarl10101 Ardex will rent a small pump delivered to your site. If the pour is under 2000' its not worth it at all.

4 More Replies...

@brandonshealy

39w↑11

This is excellent. I've donethis to a floor with 5 gallon buckets and it was extremely tedious. This set-up is fantastic. I made the mistake of letting part of it dry too much before the next pour, like he did. Really imperative to have the next batch ready to go. Definitely best to have someone mixing while you pour.

@chickencurry7642

35w↑12

That slurry will form fine cracks overtime, despite having been protected with a sealer. It might not do anything to the floor structurally considering it's a single storey house but it will be visible. Now, if you want to prevent that, lay down a layer of fine mesh (preferably a fibre mesh instead of a metal one as the latter would expand when the concrete sets, creating uneven waves) before pouring in the self-leveler slurry. The mesh will provide tensile strength, preventing any cracks from forming on the floor...

@alanstanly

1y↑18

Nice job guys! It looks great. I have a 70,000 sq foot 1927 five story office building. The floors are cement, but poured in small sections which are not level nor flat. Fine for carpet, but we wanted to change to wood (laminate planks). I am just a DIY, not a contractor, but I have done a LOT of these pours (200 to 2000 feet). The first step is we grind down the high spots at the corners and edges of each original pour. Then I like to use this self leveling stuff. It is SIX TIMES the cost of regular cement, but it flows like thick soup. It does NOT in fact self level all that well. Especially if you do it like these guys did, in large pours. The thing is, it sets in a flat amount of TIME, not by drying out (it is a chemical reaction), and that time is just a few minutes. You do not really have time to fuss with it, and if your next bucket is not ready pretty quick, the earlier pour will set before your next pour, and it will not be homogenous (you will end up with dry seams instead of a continuous pour). So, there are a couple of tools we use. One is the beveled cement float (like a push broom for shoving around cement)(A gage rake probably works too). This is used right after you pour a bucket to get it into the corners and edges quickly (time is of the essence). The second tool is the spiked roller (think pinhead on a 18 inch wide paint roller). This is used to QUICKLY smooth it all out and blend the different pours and pop any bubbles (careful not to push it too fast or it will spray cement all over your walls and pants), and do not overdo it, once the cement starts to set, it is game over. The shoes with spikes are cool if you need to walk into it and hit a corner and not ruin your sneakers. Also the cement dust while you are pouring the bags and mixing is very irritating. If doing it outside is not practical (limited time before it sets), set up a place inside (with a heavy drop cloth, it will make a serious mess A CEMENT MESS). I usually have 3-5 people to do it. Have a big trash can of water and a 10 quart bucket with a slot cut horizontally at the 6 quart level so you can quickly grab exactly the right amount of water (the water added needs to be precise). So I have 1 guy on the half inch mixing drill at the bucket, another guy pouring the dry bag into the bucket, and a 3rd guy holding the vacuum with a cyclonic dust extractor (DustDeputy). After the bucket is mixed, a 4th guy will bring it to active room, and pour it out. The final guy then uses the float and pin roller to blend it into the ongoing pour. Have 2 or more buckets in circulation so you can do it assembly line fashion. Note that it sets up and coats the buckets as you go (I can only imagine his trash can thing and spout getting clogged), so having a few extra is nice so you don't get hardened clumps in your pour. Do be sure to wet mop the floor and then put on the primer (like he says, 1 time 50% diluted and then 1 time full strength). The directions say to use a soft push broom to apply, but a cheap paint roller seems to work just as well for me (make it thick, a 3rd coat is not wrong). If you are sloppy with the primer step on an old floor, it will wick out the moisture too fast and in the morning you have a cracked useless mess to chip up and redo. f you don't tape the edges, it will flow right under baseboards or drywall (or cabinets or doors). DO not skimp on taping and sealing where you to NOT want the liquid cement to flow. Caulk cracks in the floor or it may flow through (to the floor below you). Also I can say from experience, this self leveling stuff is rather soft so do not expect it to be a walkable top coat. In fact the manufacturer's website is very clear NOT to leave it as the final surface, it is UNDERLAYMENT, although it is pretty, it is NOT durable, and a thin urethane coating will not make it suddenly durable (note however that there are professional self leveling mixes that ARE certified as a topcoat, but the ones I have found require an authorized installer to buy it).

@2S1L3NT

51w

Dayum... That's a lot of work!
But you've got it down to a science.

@benchoflemons398

40w↑1

Could you not just use ultra fine ag at a really high slump and a bunch of super plasticizer and end up with better results for cheaper?

@jonathanmalmut2412

2y↑154

This works great as a floor underlayment, but it is going to crack. Cementitious products will lose moisture over the next few weeks and continue to harden and shrink and creep. It's just the properties of products themselves. This is why sidewalks have joints in them and why slab on grades have saw cuts typically 20-25 feet on center to allow cracks to form along that joint.

Over the next few weeks you'll likely see spider cracking. It doesn't mean that it is falling apart, Mike may make it a feature. Hopefully it doesn't delaminate and start popping off, but the bonding agent that Mike laid down should help with that. Like I said, it's primary application is an underlayment for floor so you don't care if it cracks because a wood floor or tile is the main surface. I'd love to see a 1 year follow up on this floor and especially the countertops since I have less faith in those holding up over time.

I can consider myself an expert with knowing concrete, I am a structural engineer so I know a whole lot about concrete. I also sometimes get asked questions about cementitious products like this to help architects spec floor underlayments that will work with their finishes.

@Angibbabee

2y↑1

If/when it does crack to make it a feature what would you suggest to have like a darker color settle into the cracks ( like grout) and then put Epoxy overlay?

@jonathanmalmut2412

2y↑8

@@Angibbabee I'm not sure, Mike is very creative so I'm sure he will think of something. He did a thing previously where he put gold flakes in the concrete cracks so I'm excited to see what he would do when some cracks form. Also, I wouldn't expect the cracks to be very large, probably just some consistent small spider cracking where you can see it but it doesn't quite open up

@pulporock

2y↑7

This is a self leveling compound, which is significantly different to a self leveling concrete screed.
If it is cementitious in nature it would have plenty of admixtures to prevent the cracking

@cinder7258

2y↑6

it is levelling compound which is designed to be self levelling. It's over 40mpa, so it won't crack as long as there wasn't too much water or too thick.

@jonathanmalmut2412

2y↑27

I didn't want to get too technical in my comment where it becomes too long and boring. Concrete and grout are similar being cementitious materials. They both use cement as the "glue" for sand and/or stone. There may be other admixtures used to help prevent cracking but they only go so far, they help reduce the concern if cracking but it does not eliminate it entirely. Concrete and grout will crack eventually, it is just part of the material properties, unless it is under constant compression and does not see bending or significant shear. Spider cracks are going to fork eventually, but I would also say the same thing if he poured a fresh concrete slab here too. The best thing you can do is to mitigate it.

The main concern I would have with using this material as a floor finish is the same concern I have with the "concrete” countertops that he previously made. A thin skim coat just will not last as the finish. Inevitably you're going to drop something on the floor or counter and it will chip off. It's just going to happen when such a thin layer is put down and used as the finished surface, and is irrelevant of the material strength properties.

For concrete alone, the minimum thickness I would specify for a pour is 2" for a topping slab, and even then I would probably want a 3/8" stone and fibermesh used to mitigate cracking due to drying/curling, and shrinkage over time.

I have never seen an architect call for a skim coat like this to be used as a finished floor, and a contractor would also want to stay away from this too because they would probably not warranty the work. Like I said, this would be great as a floor underlayment, but I have big concerns about durability as a finished floor over time.

18 More Replies...

@garynicholls72

1y↑4

We in the UK use a large spiked roller like a paint roller but with spikes, it gets the floor level and breaks any lumps up.
Funny video good job

@Tmassey011

Just when I think you can't do anything better you go and outdo yourself. Well done my friend.

@robertaylor9218

2y↑26

this looks like it worked a lot better than I would have thought. Use a spike roller next time, it would have made a huge difference

@butangviber

That is a great looking floor. I love the Granite look to the texture.

@squidage945

2y↑1

Every time a new modern builds video drops:
1. Click the thumbnail
2. Reduce volume by 50%

@terryt2910

2y↑1

Wow! I may never do this, even though I'd like to on my basement floor, but still...WOW! Super Cool

@A2ZGeek

23w

Holy moly, this is a perfect video of exactly what not to do!! The seams, the using the wrong material that will end up cracking very soon! this floor will have to be completely redone in just a few years. If you take anything from this video its not to copy him at all.

@Binkbinkson

2y↑26

Personally I think the result looks rather great! Especially for the price and effort. I’m usually sensitive to messiness but I don’t view the different patterns as messy, they replicate stone to my mind and feel more natural than a perfectly uniform colour would

@dennisschickling2249

I think that this is a SCAM.

@Z-add

Like other have said those swirl patterns is where cracks will happen.

@oldguss

2y↑1

@@dennisschickling2249 it is i fell for it they said i needed to pay shipping to receive my prize and its not the original posters channel always check the channel

@atlasphere

2y↑6

used the same sealer and yes, freaky slippery. after about 3 months of walking carefully use and multiple vinegar and mrs meyers mops, it's normal smooth. rugs still slip around and need rubber pads tho.

@dennisschickling2249

I think that this is a SCAM.

@lechatbotte.

Ben and you killed this. The device is clever maybe just needs a few tweaks. One bag at a time will never come out as smooth. DIY should be inventive and fun. Things go wrong but that’s how you learn and improve. It’s just a floor if you don’t like it you can clever it and self leveling concrete is the perfect base.

@ptzish

2y↑6

Cool effect. I definitely like it.

Use a decoupling membrane and go into this with the understanding that it will crack. Either treat the cracks as a "design opportunity" or just leave them as character. If you're doing this over a slab you definitely need a decoupling membrane because the existing slab will pull the water out of the skim coat too fast and ruin the whole job. Once again, a decoupling membrane would mitigate this issue as well. They are like little waffles so they give the pour something to grip, which helps prevent cracking too. You could hose down the slab but who wants to do that in an existing house.

@Fetid1337

2y↑3

That's what the primer does. You would absolutely not but down the decoupling membrane like ditra first.

@shonelllewis2019

2y↑13

That came out really good! I wasn’t expecting that cool looking pattern

@climbingdragonfly

1y↑55

I just called the company that makes this stuff & they said it is only to be used as an underlayment & not for an exposed concrete floor. They said because of pressure points it will crack. I also called a concrete specialist about doing this & he said you need at least 3" of concrete to get to the necessary PSI. 1/4" or co will crack & possibly shatter like glass. I'll be curious to see how yours holds up over time.

@GaryMarkowski

1y↑4

Yep... I have used this stuff and it will crack where there is a thin layer (near the edges) when you walk on it, and after cracking, some thin layers may come loose.

@Lee-xs4dj

1y↑4

There's a special product for doing this kind of floor called Microcrete. This self levelling is only supposed to be used as a base for other flooring.

@aprilleak4356

I love ❤the look of the floor so much!!

@Pysnpai

1y↑1

@@Lee-xs4dj other flooring, like wood laminate?

@MA_KA_PA_TIE

46w↑1

Many companies sell product that can be used very well for other things. However if they market it for something and it's not approved by governing bodies they can get sued. For example r13 pink fiberglass insulation is great for stopping smoke coming from a fire place but it's not rated for that use.

2 More Replies...

@stardustsimulation

That was really cool. I could see myself doing that some day.

@Mostviews111

1y↑1

That's why you're supposed to use a spike roller to adjatate the concrete to make sure it blends

@Lensman64

LOL self cracking floors for the distressed look. Great idea!

@natashamargarette8394

2y↑15

I dont understand all the hate. For a two person job I really don’t see the suggested comments where they say it should just be “directly poured on floor” working out. Too many seams with walking back and forth and opening bags etc. I think this was an excellent way to build a tool that saved your back, your time, and a lot of headaches running around trying to prevent a seam from each bag. Great job

@theholeminute

I love building "contraptions" woot! Awesome

@bobbylinn7729

Floors look awesome mike!!!!

@hunterandersen5262

43w↑1

Damn, and I was about to pay somebody 8k to do the same sq footage for me. Thanks a bunch!

@quinnhen2325

The slide was impressive!!!

@christopherdekonstrukt444

The house I bought had 44' of drain line replace as a condition of purchase and the previous owners didn't level the floor in the kitchen and hallway when sections of the slab repoured. They then threw ceramic tiles down which began cracking right away. Temporarily used about 30 tubes of Fix a Floor and at least the tiles hold in place. Eventually all must come up; the slab underneath probably looks like the moon.

@housekeepingrehab9030

...........No Plan survives First Impact! Brilliant!

@twan923

1y↑3

Wouldn't direct contact with porous material(wood shelves, wood kitchen cabinets, and drywall) cause moisture to be pulled out of the concrete? Or, future wicking of moisture between the two surfaces?

@thefloridaman9389

Have fun changing out base cabinets

@GinoVee

Looks awesome man!

@UncleJessy

I have been wanting to repave my recording studio and I might actually attempt this

@rsz90182

43w

In 1976 when I was 9, there was a thing called the immaculate contraption. I am now looking for the plans for that device!

@TsoHangry

2y↑1

Hi I have expansion gaps in the concrete in my basement. Do I need to fill those before doing the self level concrete? If so what would I fill it with?

@taylorfitch626

32w

shoutout to billy madison shaking the kids face when you were mixing the concrete! Stay here! As Looooooong as you can!

@ericmichel3857

21w

You know, they make a special type of mixer for this sort of application. It is basically a 55 gallon drum held in a steel frame with a gimbal and a heavy duty mixer built in. This way you can mix several bags at once and the entire drum rotates to pour out the cement as needed. It is sooo much easier and faster than mixing in five gallon buckets. The cheapest versions cost around $1500, but you can usually find a place to rent one for $30 - $40 dollars a day.
In CA there is a company called CONCRETE RENTALS and they rent one called the "HIPPO - Mixer" $150 for three days or $300 for a week. There are far cheaper rental options but CA...

@dilloncooper4797

2y↑53

His actual project cost of the level quik rs is $1440 from home depot at $36 per bag. The extra bucket and mixing tools add more to the total.
He could have bought regular thinset for $12 dollars a bag and spent the remainder on italian carrera marble tile if he knew what he was doing.

@peterjansen4894

lol, you are so right. The video looked more like a gay weekend for the boys anyways.

@donkzilla2293

1y↑2

Elaborate please.

@internallyinteral

1y↑2

@wipwhopdipdhop3673

1y↑5

@@donkzilla2293 Concrete is pretty good at leveling itself but even the best pours can have low lying areas, for those minor imperfections in your floor, using thinset to fill them in will get you level but also save you a lot of money. Then you install your choice of flooring on top, a few bags could easily stretch to fill in the low lying areas of a floor this size - you'd need a 8-ft carpenter's level to ensure you can spot those imperfections over a wide area by placing the level on different areas of the floor, and seeing if it lays flat in all spots. Mark the spots it doesn't and thin set those. I'm doing this currently in my basement.

@donkzilla2293

1y↑1

@@wipwhopdipdhop3673 appreciate it mate! About to get all the supplies and get to work 👍

2 More Replies...

@WWYG316

1y↑2

Can you do an update on the floor condition?

@stacy__monroe3047

2y↑7

Hey just a thought. What do you think about adding a slanted platform at the bottom of the trash can so that it funnels into the pipe eliminating the waste at the bottle 👍🏾 great build tho looks like it made the process a lot easier great job looks fun too -bwash

@vandittpatel

2y↑2

on moderrrrrn bewuuilds !!!

@stevemorris3710

52w

Thponthord by thkwere-thpayth.

@janao910

I love this series to much 😎

@NightimeDan

2y↑18

This is interesting but what is the plan when someone drops something heavy on it and cracks it in a spot? Chip up a square of it and re-pour? Just use filler in the chip/crack?

@2jimmycrackcorn

2y↑3

likely it will damage easily. this is designed to be used under an actual interior flooring like carpet, tile, LVP, wood. we used this in our basement remodel after framing to level the floors. i wouldnt personally use this as a top coat.

@jonathanmalmut2412

2y↑1

Exactly, it should be used underneath a more durable floor material. Using this as the finished floor itself will not hold up over time for several reasons. The thin layer will start popping off over time, and it'll likely chip off when something is dropped on it

@mram7715

Kinda like tile😮

@NightimeDan

@@mram7715 Except tile can be singularly replaced. That’s my point…each tile is separate, this is one smooth, continuous pour - if it cracks, you either have to scratch up and re-pour the entire floor, or replace one little area and now have a finish that isn’t smooth, which is the entire allure of this in the first place.

@drivventodrumm1

You could add a light aggregate to the clear to limit slipping

@ChavezDIY

2y↑5

I used the Sika brand stuff as an underfloor for my office corner. The floor was really uneven and this helped to even my floor, but its not perfectly self-leveling on really uneven flooring. You're better off troweling it and spreading it manually to get a flat surface. I can see the transition from each pour so you won't get a consistent color. I found several uneven areas once it was done and filled the low areas with some floor patch in the flooring aisle at Home Depot. I put some vinyl planks over the floor and it looks okay. If I wanted a perfectly flat floor I should have put plywood under the vinyl planks. My only regret is not insulating my floor because it gets really cold in the winter since its directly on a slab of concrete.

@robwinter3183

2y↑1

Same thing happen to me.

@jonvon2044

If you want a flat floor you have to get a concrete grinder to take down the high spots first, then level flow. Plywood is not a fix for an uneven floor as it will still be uneven and/or gaps between the plywood and concrete subfloor lol.

@ChavezDIY

@@jonvon2044 let me clarify. Instead of grinding down the high spots, I filled the low spots with floor patch to level the floor. The purpose of the plywood would not be to level the floor. Since my situation is slab concrete that has pre-existing cracks, the vinyl planks are separating where the slabs cracks exist. There are no control joints in this slab so the concrete moves at the cracks. The plywood would prevent the planks from shifting since they wouldn't be connected to the shifting cracked slab.

@jonvon2044

1y↑1

@@ChavezDIY Oh okay I get you. Well before you spend all that money on plywood try using something like “Mapgaurd” by Mapei. Its a crack suppressant membrane that you apply down the length of the crack (like you’re rolling out the red carpet) this membrane will stretch with the subfloor instead of the flooring and is much more cost affective and less labor intensive at the same time 👍

@ChavezDIY

1y↑1

@@jonvon2044 thanks for the tip. I'll keep that in mind if I decide to redo the floor.

4 More Replies...

@Dragnssmoke

that looks amazing i love it!!!!

@christianholt8580

38w

How has this floor held up? Do you know if you did actually get a 1/4”? Or if it was thinner? Thank you! Great job btw..

@Mackandal-

Great finish 💯

@alexander-yd3hz

43w

cool idea, if i have to level another floor im gonna make something similar

@709andre

I did this DIY pour two times and for the second one we already understood we have to invite few family members to mix with multiple buckets and drills to achieve good pouring times. Mixing of my material was supposed to take 4 minutes and the initial drying time was 20 minutes, so with only one bucket mixing you would pour the 5th bucket on a solidified material. This way I believe it has to be maximum 30 minute job always. What is your experience?

@DRJoe100

52w↑1

Looks cool but is missing joints to prevent excess cracking. Another thing you can do on top of existing concrete is semco you don’t have to add joints and they have colors that look like concrete

@TsoHangry

Hey! Love your content. I'd love to see your take on a diy murphy bed entertainment center for small spaces. Maybe an Idea for the future? Thanks!

@FFact483

38w

Thanks 🙏 That’s exactly what I needed

@joshuarobbins3109

2y↑1

Would love some updates over time on these.

@fernando-sl7qm

I’ll admit, it came out really good 👍

@MakeSomething

2y↑4

Sliding in socks on floors is my #1 hobby!

@mehmoodhassan2600

Love ur vids

@PHX9494

50w↑1

How long after completing the project did you apply the sealer?

@honestlyforreal6304

Good lord. You made this job WAY harder than it should have been. Pour the product on the floor, put on your spiked shoes, and roll with a 36" pin roller. 33 bags is a 1.5 hour job for 1 guy. And yes, I do this at least twice a month. The know nothing comments on this video are incredible.

@RossPotts

Put the strainer screen on the opening of the trash can for pouring. That way, you can avoid clumps clogging the pipe. Think of it like drinking a Slurpy through a straw: chunks would get stuck at the pipe, limiting the flow.

@bnssoftware3292

Wish I saw this a few years ago before doing our condo.

@broncoramfan

Just asking to ask would sanding the bedroom fix the blending issue? Or were areas you sanded the bumps nourished with the sealer

@danielmoctezuma4760

Would you suggest doing this in a house that is out of level? I house that I just bought is structurally sound. However, foundation level it's not within "tolerance". I'm thinking about using this cement to level the flooring.

@theford302

would this work on partially outdoor slab? I have water intrusion issues with a slab that wasn't properly leveled, it mainly comes in at one corner of a 16' swinging door

@hightide-mcknotts

Thanks for the video! I have used this Self leveling product from Home Depot and I like it - Worked perfectly

@robertpsargent

14w

How did you make sure that you poured 1/4 in throughout the house?

@DanSwanson2070

1y↑1

I think a cement-look ceramic tile large format would have been the way to go, you also could have had floor heating

@christophercyle3824

32w

Which do you think would be strongest and longest lasting option: RS Leveler, ReCap, or NewCrete?

@scott2764

45w

Can you do this if your house has a plywood subfloor over a crawlspace?

@franciscoflores3428

2y↑1

I like it, came out nice.

@TrunksChoiceBand

2y↑333

This isn't what this product is designed for, there are cold joins everywhere which will fracture and crack and there are no expansion joins anywhere. He should really do a update video in a year to see if it has cracked through the doorways, cold joins and see what damage the floor has received from general use

@andylimb

2y↑46

Not to mention this is just a slurry mix not concrete. There are going to be huge issues with this.

@hasserecht3678

2y↑45

I wanna se the entire house after 3 years. As far as i have seen the videos it will start falling apart.

@RyanEwanchuk

2y↑53

No one seems to know the difference between cement and concrete in the real world.

@neondynamite

2y↑38

Yeah.. this house should be condemned. He also took a support beam out and placed a heavy brace in the roof that will likely collapse over time. I wouldn’t live here.

@hasserecht3678

2y↑41

@@neondynamite If you ask me all the newer videos where he fiddles with the structual integrity should be taken offline because if people try this at home there is some serious danger.

40 More Replies...

@robertbolen4151

36w↑1

Can you do this over wooden subfloors ?

@ateyaquran6106

Hello my friend. I have a problem in my concrete works:
I make concrete slabs, but these slabs curl (pend) when dried. Do you have a solution for this problem?
Thank you

@ShanePresleyC

49w

noticed that you didn't put a straight edge to demonstrate the flatness... how did you gauge that you hit your desired depth?

@erlinavicente7411

Question, would they crack or pit with heels 👠 foot traffic?

@executiveflooring

1y↑9

Biggest problem you made, is that the leveler you used isn’t rated as a wear surface. You need to use something like Mapei M20 plus or their Ultratop

@anamationstudios

46w

does this even matter if its just for foot traffic and is sealed?

@fd3871

40w↑1

@@anamationstudios 4 people sitting on a couch is like 1000 lbs, I doubt this will sustain the point loads and will likely crack and pieces will pop off in certain locations overtime due to the thickness

@jkroiss

Saw the video before bed and told myself sleep after this video

@tim7362

26w

@Modern Builds
Use anti skid additives for your sealer (or if you add floor finish in the future) next time you do the last layers. Does what it says on the tin :P

@remoman

13w

This product is not designed to be a trafficable flooring surface. It’s a substrate that needs a flooring product installed on the top like carpet or LVT.

@SchysCraftCo.

Keep making. God bless.

@dawnyprestom9108

1y↑22

Also, seeing how incredibly talented you are, you should also modify the cement container once more, by creating a slanted bottom on the inside of it, so that the wet concrete naturally channels down into the spout, so you don't have to lift the container at the end. Amazing job!

@jewelmiller5282

43w

Recommend taking doors off hinges before hand?

@virginiaray2145

39w

I love the video. But can you say how much water you added to the concrete to get that consistency?

@inspiringbuilds

2y↑3

Nice job! It’s always a learning experience as you go and definitely would build a 2nd jig to fill and use when your first one is empty. If not putting flooring over the concrete applying an anti slip treatment is always an option. 👍

@dennisschickling2249

I think that this is a SCAM. I GOT ONE .

@dvd_vnn

2y↑7

Woww😍 I'll make for sure som concrete projects on my channel in future🤩

@bryanwaugi6632

2y↑2

in theory could this be done and then laminate wood flooring be put down over top?

@charlmon

36w

Someone help me understand: that thin layer over that really smooth surface wont result in the new concrete top to crack and break with as littke as walking on top of it?

I trued this in my garage, with about 2 inches thickness. When it dried, i lift from the subfloor and walking on in immediately broke it.

What am I doing wrong?
Someone help please!

@naeover4803

35w

Can you do an update on your countertops?

@deborahdunlap7168

34w

Do you replace the spout between uses, or are you able to wash it out in time?

@c.s.s.5326

Did we leave the shelves in place and pour around them…?

@simengineering9183

32w

How are the floors after a year? Any cracks?

@adanbaldonado

I have a question
Why didn’t you buy the premade Rubbermaid trash can dolly

@JeepTJay6

In hind sight, might have been better to build 2 pourers. That way you could pour one while your buddy mixes and refills the second. No wait time that way. Great idea though. I might try this in my garage.

@RobinLewisMakes

35w

Hey Mike. It's been almost a year. Any issues with cracking?

@andrewjohnson2447

17w

is there an update video on this floor yet?

@craigphillips4105

What the load rating on this stuff ? I've got an uneven garage floor idea like to level. Will this hold up to a car driving on it too?

@marylandtocy

21w↑1

Update on what these floors look like now?!?

@gellybellyism

43w

Would electric radiant heating work under this?

@kiashaw

38w

This is so cool, does it come in different colors?

@anneard1674

I had no idea! thanks

@wasntme151

You could buy a long elastic slug maybe a bit wider in diameter not the average water hose and or you even could use a water hose too and later wash out with water bc this material was really fluid. The same big bucket, outside the house, 1 guy mixing the material one guy helping to handle the hose and 1 is pouring much precisely . You just have to put the bucket high enough that the material can leave.