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tempered sort
((S*5)) Lyrics
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10-1 1 All the things I said I should have said and didn't…
10-1 3 Click, click Click, click Yeah Click, click DTP nigga! …
9-5 2 Five foot two, eyes of blue But oh, what those five…
Celebrate Stop what you're doing Right away There's no time to work …
The Future [Akil] Yea [Soup] Turn me up though [Akil] Uh Huh,Y…
Was It the Style Woke up sweating from a dream With a different kind of…
Was it the style? Woke up sweating from a dream With a different kind of…
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wa4aos
That tape was a cheap vibration absorption tape with a good surface adhesion. On my two WT tables, one is The Reference and one is the Records Player, square hole, I took 2 small wood wedges and a rubber mallet and gently tapped between the layers until they seperated. I replaced it with Sorbothane tape 1/8 inch thick, from Amazon, and used a rubber cement on both sides on the Sorbothane to prevent any drift on the panels of the plinth. Amazon also has Sorbothane pads 1/4 inch thick which will work as well. I also drilled about 1/3 third inch in 3 locations on each panel and lose fitted a total of 6 wood dowel pins so the table could be moved without any concern of drift. This made the Record paler as dead and true as my Reference table. This added another level of deep sonic purity to the playback which I have NEVER heard on any table at any price and I have listened to MANY high end tables.
The trick to perfect hole alignment is to put the low layer piece down on a flat surface. I cut 2) 2x4 boards 2' long and screwed the together at the ends while they were vertical. I used a T square to make 100% sure I had a true right angle and braced it up against one corner of the WT base layer. Alternately, you could cut out 4 pieces and form fit it in a rectangle against a non drifted WT table for a perfect fit. .
Then I got 3 quarter" flat washers pads and painted them with thinned, one small drop of isopropyl alcohol, ink from a ballpoint pen cartridge and quickly placed them about 120° apart and with the spindle in the middle section, carefully satt the middle layer down on the bottom section. Then repeat the process for the middle to top layer,
But first, I bisected the ink dots marks now transferred to the table layers with a sharp fine tipped Sharpie marker using a straight edge.
Next, using a sharp ice pick or center punch, make center impressions for drilling. I used drill bit guards so I could only drill down 1/3rd inch. I applied the holes with a little RTV silicone rubber to prevent any direct pin to plinth layer contact.
Next was to apply the Sorbothane runs with a thin layer of rubber cement adhesive on both sides and placed them,
With just a little play between each pin and the holes. and Sorbothane runs laid out, I quickly, sat down the middle section on top of the bottom for a PERFECT FIT. Having a helper at your side so you can check the alignment in both planes helps. Once the middle is sitting on top of the sorbothane and pins you will have a permanent alignment with MUCH better isolation and vibration absorption. Of course, repeat this process with the top layer with wood pins, sorbothane and spindle in place.
My reengineered process can be done in less than an hour and I defy anyone using any table at any price to produce a more realistic and pure tonal experience. My mod can be done for ~$70 or less and is worth 100 times the price. I believe the addition of the sorbothane layers to make most of the improvement I found
Glenn Scott
DSM Labs
wa4aos
That tape was a cheap vibration absorption tape with a good surface adhesion. On my two WT tables, one is The Reference and one is the Records Player, square hole, I took 2 small wood wedges and a rubber mallet and gently tapped between the layers until they seperated. I replaced it with Sorbothane tape 1/8 inch thick, from Amazon, and used a rubber cement on both sides on the Sorbothane to prevent any drift on the panels of the plinth. Amazon also has Sorbothane pads 1/4 inch thick which will work as well. I also drilled about 1/3 third inch in 3 locations on each panel and lose fitted a total of 6 wood dowel pins so the table could be moved without any concern of drift. This made the Record paler as dead and true as my Reference table. This added another level of deep sonic purity to the playback which I have NEVER heard on any table at any price and I have listened to MANY high end tables.
The trick to perfect hole alignment is to put the low layer piece down on a flat surface. I cut 2) 2x4 boards 2' long and screwed the together at the ends while they were vertical. I used a T square to make 100% sure I had a true right angle and braced it up against one corner of the WT base layer. Alternately, you could cut out 4 pieces and form fit it in a rectangle against a non drifted WT table for a perfect fit. .
Then I got 3 quarter" flat washers pads and painted them with thinned, one small drop of isopropyl alcohol, ink from a ballpoint pen cartridge and quickly placed them about 120° apart and with the spindle in the middle section, carefully satt the middle layer down on the bottom section. Then repeat the process for the middle to top layer,
But first, I bisected the ink dots marks now transferred to the table layers with a sharp fine tipped Sharpie marker using a straight edge.
Next, using a sharp ice pick or center punch, make center impressions for drilling. I used drill bit guards so I could only drill down 1/3rd inch. I applied the holes with a little RTV silicone rubber to prevent any direct pin to plinth layer contact.
Next was to apply the Sorbothane runs with a thin layer of rubber cement adhesive on both sides and placed them,
With just a little play between each pin and the holes. and Sorbothane runs laid out, I quickly, sat down the middle section on top of the bottom for a PERFECT FIT. Having a helper at your side so you can check the alignment in both planes helps. Once the middle is sitting on top of the sorbothane and pins you will have a permanent alignment with MUCH better isolation and vibration absorption. Of course, repeat this process with the top layer with wood pins, sorbothane and spindle in place.
My reengineered process can be done in less than an hour and I defy anyone using any table at any price to produce a more realistic and pure tonal experience. My mod can be done for ~$70 or less and is worth 100 times the price. I believe the addition of the sorbothane layers to make most of the improvement I found
Glenn Scott
DSM Labs
iamspyvspy
I had these one of these when they first came out.
The two with the square motor cut-out were the original made by designer William Firebaugh. The third table with round cut-out was a later one made by Transparent Audio. The spindle flange is of larger diameter and it uses a slightly different platter and clamp.
The arm base is not designed to rotate, the post is notched and the base will only be correctly positioned one way. Of the three tables, the center one has the arm correctly setup. The two on the ends need adjustment.
The best way to fix misaligned plinths is to pull them apart and use fresh damping material between each layer. Re-wiring the arm is a major PIA as the factory wire is sealed in a sand filled arm tube. The easiest way to effect a wire change is to disconnect the original wire and run the new wire outside the tube and tape it in place. Back in the day we used Sumiko arm wrap, a constrained layer tape that held the wire in place and dampened the arm tube, sand filling didn't completely eliminate ringing.
30 years on these are still remarkable turntables that are not surpassed by the new Chinese Well Tempereds.
alan Rogs
I've only had the Chinese versions and I like them well enough but in the end I basically only kept one of the arms and cup set up and put it on my opera Consonance LP 1.0 table. When you set the arms up and if you have OCD you will surely go mad.
I found the less the golf ball is resting in the fluid the better it sounds. If one drowns the ball in the fluid the sound will be very 'thick' if that makes sense?
Steven Jackson
Inspired design. I've admired this turntable since it was introduced. In fact, I might like pick one of these up, even an earlier version.
Dan Edewaard
The engineers who designed this table were REALLY thinking outside the box!!! It would take me a while to be comfortable with the tonearm and plater bearings even though they are perfectly fine and extraordinarily ingenuous!!! Thank you for showing this design in detail! I would love to come for a visit as I live only a mile or so from your location. Thanks again.
artursudnik
I adore the dust on this vinyl.
Mike Azeka
Nice overview! I have the original Well Tempered Table. It is such a cool design, very unusual and tracks the records quite well. One really minor detail, the belt is meant to have a half-twist between the motor pulley and the platter. Bill Firebaugh says it helps the belt slip off the platter and off the motor pulley smoothly as it rotates, which further reduces flutter. I'll take their word for it 😉!
ProudDigital
I remember these from back in the day. Great reviews and highly innovative design but at almost 2K 1980 money, was out of my reach at the time. Having recently purchased the Schitt Sol, I can see where they got some of their design elements from after watching your video. Thanks, great video.
kopr cord
Was thinking the same about the sol.
gotham61
Firebaugh always recommended putting a half twist in the belt between the platter and motor. Rewiring the arm is tricky, because it's filled with sand.