Terracotta
V-Lenz Lyrics

We have lyrics for 'Terracotta' by these artists:

Anthony Kalabretta You know I'm glad that I met you In the strangest…
Georgia Ruth Terracotta Diffyg defodau A diffyg paill ar ein tafodau Bl…
saint idiot I want to be a little person Taking up little space And…

We have lyrics for these tracks by V-Lenz:

Der Schmerz sitzt tief Der Schmerz sitzt tief, wenn ein Mensch sich von uns…
DonnersNacht Wie des Sensenmannes Mantel verdunkelt sie die Sterne, eine…
Feuer! Oh-oh-oh Ey-yeah, ey-yeah Entfach' mein Feuer (yeah) Uh-oh-u…
Gottes Soldat Er hatte nichts getan, wirklich niemandem geschadet. Nur au…

Henker Intro: "Die Nacht der ewigen Schreie hat schon begonnen und…
Intro Jak zamykam oczy widzę jak umieram i rodzinę która płacze…
Medley Jackson 5 Medley (I Want You Back / The Love…

The lyrics are frequently found in the comments by searching or by filtering for lyric videos

TRACKS

No Related Genres

More Genres

No Artists Found

More Artists Load All

No Albums Found

More Albums Load All

No Tracks Found

Genre not found

Artist not found

Album not found

Search results not found

Song not found

Most interesting comments from YouTube:

Gregory Johnson

4y↑5

I think you were looking for the word medium, of which the medium could be acrylic, oil, tempra, etc..

Here is further breakdown
Paint is = ground pigment and/or dye + medium/binder
Mediums help the paint flow and set to a hard paint film. Mediums for miniature paints are most often acrylic (a polymer, essentially a plastic), or an oil based enamel
Traditional art mediums have included: wax, egg yolk, casein (milk protein), oil (linseed, walnut, etc.), and others.

Ground pigment can include colored earth, iron oxides, processed metals, burnt wood or bones etc.
Dyes can be made through industrial chemical processes or with plant dye chemically bound to metals, etc.
Binders: is anything that helps hold the dry pigments together, so the medium could be considered a binder. Other binders include wax, varnish, lime, and others. Binders can be unnecessary if a medium is present. Often manufactures take this as an opportunity to fill the paint with non visible, cheap, additives to bulk up the volume to make a profit.
Vehicles: are additives like water, or more medium that can help make the paint flow better

Andrew Brehaut

4y↑1

Paraphrasing Vince Venturella’s excellent video on what paint is made of, all paint has four groups of ingredients:
• pigment
• solvent
• binder
• additives (a catch all for everything that isn’t the first three)

Everything that isn’t the pigment is known as the “paint vehicle”.

With mini paints, and acrylic paints in general, the solvent is water, the binder is an acrylic resin. Additives often include things like drying time extenders, opacifiers (for pigments that’s are naturally transparent like a lot of yellows), flow improver (for example in reaper paints).

Pigments vary wildly based on paint brands. In the “artist quality” (2D fine art) paint world, the tubes will list all the pigment numbers on the back, and you can go look them up. In the mini painting world, not so much.

In contrast, watercolor paints the solvent is water, and the binder is gum arabic.

LordPadriac

Reaper has been the best paint overall for me. It makes the largest portion of my collection by far. I bought the set with the first 108 colors of their master series. It's unbelievable good quality and just doesn't seem to dry out and the minis love it. I have also never had a problem remixing one of the Reaper paints no matter how long it's been since I used a given color. That might have something to do with the little silver skull bead in every pot though. I will be buying the rest of the line soon. Economically and customer service wise they are far and away the best company I have dealt with.

I have a small selection of Vallejo and they work but I have noticed that some of the colors I was most interested in one of their wargame sets I bought, a few of the florescent colors in particular, seem to permanently separate and just won't remix. I also have the 8 bottle set of Vallejo's metallics and washes. I do like Vallejo's washes but I find I need to thin them or they tend to act like thin paint rather than a wash.

Citadel I fucking hate with the burning passion of a thousand suns. The pots suck and seem designed to waste paint and are fairly difficult to use and then close properly. Even when closed properly and sealed their paints just dry out with a quickness in the pot. Once I learned the hard way how the pots were garbage and needed extra attention to be sure they were sealed properly I thought I was okay. I ended up going to the hospital for a three week stay and when I was recovering at home I was going to do some painting only to find out that half the GW paints I had at that point had dried out in the pots despite being sealed well and fine when I last used them. Most of their specialty paints, like the dry paints and the special effects ones, are even worse. The only GW stuff I still have and still like are their washes, the glazes (which are now discontinued) the liquid green stuff.

Although to be honest I do not like their washes and liquid green stuff so much that I will be replacing them with more GW when my current supply runs out. GW sells pots that come in under size in ounces that every other brand sells and charge more per paint on top of it making it even more expensive. Now that I've gotten the hang of using Vallejo's washes I think I will be switching over to them and the Reaper washes as the GW stuff runs out. The liquid green stuff is great but it does seem to want to begin drying out almost as soon as you first open the pot when you get it home. I am looking for a replacement.

All comments from YouTube:

Reginald MacGinnty

4y↑55

I am in the process of painting my 5th, 6th and 7th minis right now. I figure i won't be worried about "best paints" for a while. My biggest worry is getting paint to go more or less where I want it to go.

Freek Bulder

@xmrpaintx1 i totally agree with you! But you made chuckle a bit when you wrote: "because he had a Child........or any of the other million bad things...".🤣

Stewart Mills

Pal you will never know what your best work will be until you use the best materials; that means the best paint and the best brushes.
Im not sure how old you are??? But if you are an adult 18+ then you shouldnt have any excuse not to invest in good materials.
Maybe you dont want to get good? Maybe youll stick with video games instead. If youre gonna stay in the hobby? Spend the money and take the time to learn about the Art. I started when i was 7 and now im nearly 50. It doesnt get Old it just gets better!

Nathan Gerardy

@mike gallimore I have to agree with Mike here. The cost of paint isn't that much that you can't get at least a few of the main colors of your army. I've used cheaper paints and I only use Citadel and Vallejo. I'm open to others, but always used those and have been happy with the results vs cheaper stuff.

Necrodead

4y↑3

haha yeah I started with craft paints a year ago... although technically I've only finished 6 models, I have about 40 at some stage of WIP, lol.

2 More Replies...

Skyler Galle

4y↑53

This was fantastic. More of this stuff please

Gareth

Was just thinking that.

Alice

4y↑408

citadel paint is best because if you get a little spoon you can eat it straight from the pot without getting other dishes dirty

Karalas Wants Justice

I thought they were packaged that way for shots

Grayson Karter

Instablaster

r0hz

3y↑2

They are the best because they spill so easily you end up buying three!

Joshua Jaimes

Yeah but I can't buy a set anywhere!

Stewart Mills

@NordboDK Yeah they are interesting; a little goes a long way, especially if youre using a wet palette. Their Artist Acrylics act a little like Oils, again pigments are so strong, you can cut them down to almost nothing and you will get some nice glazes. You have to experiment with them to get the most out of them, sadly everytime i get a perfect glaze? i cant replicate it.

10 More Replies...

404ErrorPage

4y↑59

Mephiston Red has been hands down the best red I've used over the years.

Stewart Mills

@Bao Thuy Citadel Games Workshop

Taylor Johnson

3y↑1

This is Khorne red erasure and I won’t stand for this.

Mikey R

3y↑1

I didn't know someone could feel so strongly about a paint.

Classic World

3y↑1

@0newingedcrow They mean that from a technical standpoint, due to red pigment, it's the hardest paint (along with yellow and white). Every painter will tell you that red is the hardest colour/pigment to deal with and they also often say that blue is the easiest. Science, I guess.

Stewart Mills

@robert bruce ironically; the Guy may have been correct. Albeit; i done a little research and Mephiston Red is leaning towards a red brown, but its about 15 shades away!
"Porsche Red" trademarked by Porsche Vehicles is virtually identical to Mephiston Red. Whatever base color Mephiston red is truly leaning towards? Its beautiful and i am yet to find another Red that is "true"does not lean toward pink nor orange

17 More Replies...

Twirch

4y↑15

I love it when you and Sam get together and talk paint and painting!

Lime

4y↑6

Paint is like any other tool, you just build up a collection over the years. No one goes out and buys every tool imaginable, all from the same brand. You just get what you need for your current project and over time you end up with a whole range of things.

proxy

4y↑6

There's good colors in each range, but there's also some awkward colors in those ranges too. Kimera Kolors paints are incredible though, it's got 13 paints in the set but they mix perfectly since they've only got one pigment in each paint, and 30ml dropper bottles makes it worth picking up a couple of their paints at least.

EnterTheFenix

yep, and then you have to be adept at mixing and have to record your recipes etc if you want to paint identical things down the track. Im not saying they arent good (i love them too) but that process is beyond so many painters in this hobby

T Bishop

4y↑22

75% of my paint collection is Army Painter but I also have Vallejo and Citadel in there as well. Completely right that no brand is perfect.

PaddyPump

@Tottytoland same... Ive never had a bad citadel paint, they always work with a little bit of shaking, but army painter? Ive used ball bearings and shook for 5 mins straight and still it separates and is unusable, phoenix orange and babe blonde are absolutely awful.

K Geo

How do you like ultramarine blue?

Jack McAllister

4y↑5

I find my main issue with army painter is how much you have to mix it at times to get a thorough consistency. Once you get that worked out I've not had much trouble using it though I haven't used all the colors I've bought yet. I was looking for an affordable, dropper bottle paint set and found AP's stuff. I may try others eventually but save for the amount of mixing you have to do it has been good to work with, especially with just a small amount of flow improver. I used Citadel before then and while I do like their paints the pots are inexcusably bad and feels like you end having half the paint dry before you can use it or it gets in the areas where it is supposed to seal up and prevents a good one.

Daniel Bennett

4y↑3

@Tottytoland Agreed, I started on army painter and had to fight with it so much. Going citadel/Vallejo was so much more enjoyable. Although army painter black/white were ok. Army painter ultramarine blue is the worst paint I've ever used.

Tottytoland

4y↑4

This is so strange to me because I've found army painter to be mostly terrible.

Chris

4y↑2

This came at just the right time; I’m about to buy my own paints instead of borrowing and wanted to be confident in my pick for my first set of paints to work with, and I’m glad to see for the most part that there’s no wrong set, just varying degrees of right.

Apollo

4y↑80

I really enjoy this format. Just sitting and having a conversation. Not trying to teach necessarily explain. Just two dudes sitting talking about what they enjoy.

Voce Noctum

4y↑5

I decided last year to start painting mini's again after a long time away, so figured I'd get a good starter set. Reviews are all pretty "it works", so I settled on the D&D Players Starter, which uses Army Painter paints. I was not having good luck with them, even thinning with water they didn't seem to flow right. God a couple colors I was missing in Vallejo and they were much smoother and nice, so I got their painter set that has a much.
Overall, very happy with the Vallejo, and I've gotten into the Citadel contrast line also, and it's giving me the look I want. I'm more an Atom painter than a Sam painter, and I'm fine with it. :)

Nor'Eastern Brewmaster

4y↑1

I have found that you really need to shake the crap out of Army Painter. I add beads to my dropper bottles as stirrers, otherwise you get massive inconsistency. Just in case you want to try to salvage that set.

Many Slayer

4y↑4

Getting back into minis over the last few years, I paint primarily with Citadel paints I bought 20+ years ago (old hex pots, both flip top and twist top). A few were dried out but most still work fine.

C D

4y↑2

I use a combination of brands, for me it’s color selection > performance > anything else. I love these little discussion videos. Thanks TM!

CarrotVision3D

4y↑2

I tried to paint a yellow over purple recently. Let's just say they still a slight green tint on the very edge after many layers.

Mentoliptus Banko

4y↑2

Wow, I'd like a tattoo from Sam <3
And I agree with what you said, the brand is absolutely not important. I am also still looking for a good white and for good metallics. For now I use Vallejo white and recently ordered the Vajello air metallics.

Larry Wagner

Over the six months I’ve been getting back into painting. I started out with paints from different brands but found it hard to deal with all the different names for colors (being slightly color blind doesn’t help). To help myself I went ahead and bought the Army Painter 50 color set. It’s helped me so much having a set of colors that build on each other. I still have other brands and will buy certain things from those. But having a single base set has helped my tremendously.

Gregory Johnson

4y↑5

Leo Starrs-Cunningham

4y↑1

On black - I used to mix my own black, so I could mess with the tone, using Prussian Blue, Cadmium Red and Burnt Umber (lineseed oil as medium). Worked a treat and I always got a super rich colour with loads of depth.

paul0132

4y↑119

The best mini paint is the one that ends up on the miniature. Everything else is a bonus.

Wraithseer

This guy gets it

Martin Beaule

As someone who wanted to get into painting bought alot of things but never really did the jump. This hurt my soul hahaha

Greta Thanos

4y↑1

@paul0132 Well said.

Spongemonkey26

I paint mostly blood Angel's and have never had a difficulty with refs. That was interesting to hear a lot of people do. White and Yellow however have been difficult but eventually I realized the pure versions of those colors aren't meant as bases, and in pure whites case, I believe it to be no more than a final edge or spot highlight.

KensanOni

4y↑8

Thoughts -

Hot Bright Yellows tend to be more transparent out of the pot unless they've added other colors to the mix. So your Bright Bumble Bee Yellow usually needs to be painted atop of a white, or needs as Sam says another less transparent color mixed with it, to help fight that. This is pretty universal among high quality paints.

At this point, (and heaven knows I'm no expert) I'm using either Vallejo Paints, which I've just been using since I was a teen, and probably will always admire, but I'm favoring Golden Fluid Acrylics, as I bought those for my artistic pursuits, and while they were wrong for the type of art I wanted to do, they are doing just fine on the Miniatures. While they are more expensive, which is a consideration for people, I've tested a couple of colors against Citadel, and found they worked about the same (Especially the Purple). While I've not tried the special line of Citadel Paints for effects, I've not felt any regret using the Goldens. I particularly like the Pearl Iridescent paint, because you can mix that with anything to get a bright shiny color to add to your paints. It's beautiful.

I'm still relearning the hobby, so I don't know how much my opinion really counts, but look for high pigment quality, with as pure a binder as you can fine, and you should be fine, IMO.

B.A. Barackas

I just got an 8 pack of Golden fluids from my local Michael's as my first set of paints (did a bit of research online).

Find they work wonderfully, although I have no comparison. Wish I had more colours now.

Probably gonna pick up some Vallejo metallics, since I hear there is no comparison, and I need those shiny colourz.

PanzerJäger Hantoeig

That part on the yellow is absolutely true. I read in a modelling guide that for lighter colours white has to be painted underneath, else it won't look like the colour wanted.

karma Q84

4y↑1

Yeah golden has awesome acrylics , you only need 3 and white and black .they are creamy too .

anthony adams

4y↑1

Im into 28mm wargaming and I find Reaper triads to be the easiest and best to use. They are naturally thinner most other paints so it makes painting the layered highlighting very easy.

Yovanna Acosta

I haven't tried citadel paints apart from a couple of washes, I paint mostly with vallejo, P3 and Scale 75. Also, I really want to try AK 3rd generation paints, they seem to have really good consistency and amount of pigment :D

Joe Hough

1300 minis in and still painting and, well, Sam and Atom are spot on. I started using enamels back in the 80s as they were pretty much it. When acrylics started to really become available I made the switch, but there were folks who painted incredible minis with enamels. Paint with what you like and just enjoy the hobby...

Rattlesnakedaddy

I have a mix of GW, Valejo, Scale75, P3, and Golden. P3 has some of my favorite consistency. Easily thins while maintaining good saturation.

Michał

4y↑3

Ultramarine blue is amazing, I use it too smoothen transitions on my wait for it - Ultramarines! But I do dilute it with flow improver.

Nina Fae

100% Vallejo makes some the best metallics out there where the consistency tends to work evenly and the color looks excellent when dried. I cannot recommend it enough and if you want a fun metallic, I highly recommend their Gunmetal Blue, it makes for great power swords.

Their bronzes are also really solid as well.

Hiro Protagonist

I got the big set of army painter and they have been great. I couldn't get them to go through my air brush so I watched a video. Turns out increasing the psi to 40 isn't how you get better flow. Now I spray at 10 psi and they work great.

Obvie

Great video guys. I'm curious what you both would think of Scale75 paints. It's a tie for me between them and P3 for my favorite. Their new creamy paints are very different, still deep in the learning curve with them.

duckster313

4y↑1

Back in the late 90s, I absolutely loved Chessex's paint line. They were thick and creamy, and went on so smooth.

Vio

2y↑1

havent painted anything in years, this was a very informative video for someone wanting to get into painting miniatures

EIN Games

Many moons ago it was citadel paint (due to the lack of choice). Twenty years later I am getting back in and only use nuln wash only with many Vallejo and army painter. Just really starting to get to grips with what these paints can do when used with good techniques.

Eric Deutsch

If you’re going to Paint imperial first try starting with dark yellow from Vallejo. I’ve been working with it for years to paint German tanks and it’s a great dark yellow. It would be perfect as a base for your imperial fest.

John Ashley-Smith

4y↑1

Interesting discussion! For myself ,I tend to use Citadel paints, having used them for two decades or so ,and simply because they are widely available in my area. I have paints for modelling from other manufacturers, Tamiya acrylics,terrible for figure painting. Tester's acryl, which are surprisingly good for figures, straight from the bottle. I also have a bunch of Humbrol enamels. Great for tanks and other military subjects,but not so hot for figures.
Shamefully, I have yet to try the Citadel contrast paints. Limited funds! Admittedly,I am more likely to stick with what I know,and buy more kits rather than try new paint ranges.
Anyways, thanks for the video!

Nathan Gerardy

I probably haven't put in enough time learning to use the Contrast paints, but I find them very frustrating to use to get a good result. I tend to use them only on fur, or things with a ton of heavy detail. For that they are magic. But I tend to use classic paint for anything other than that. I love Black Templar, Cygor Brown, Gore Grunta Fur, Skeleton Horde and Snakebite Leather. One coat for fur and bones, highlight if you like to make it pop more. The rest of the range I'm good to skip.

Silly Con Valet

Most of my paint is Reaper because it's really thin, but I also have a peppering of Army Painter, Vallejo, and Citadel (Who undeniably have some good technical/specialist paints).

Cole Cantos

4y↑6

I like a mix of Army Painter, Vallejo, and Citadel paints.

Diavolino1988

Citadel is great for base colors imo. Amazing coverage.

Gunny Huntarr

4y↑3

Hands down Vallejo is the most versatile & consistent for me. I use everything including Apple Barrel :gagreflexvomit (no KINK SHAME) ....I love'd this conversation

Dtm Jax

4y↑1

Vallejo. Best all around for me. Vallejo Air for airbrush and Game Extra Opaque for brush. Hard to beat IMO.

Mike collis

I find model paints like humbrol and revell work really well and are pretty cheap.

TheGameSmith

4y↑3

My preference is the best product! Whoever makes the best color that requires the least work for me to get it to do what I want in terms of color saturation, flowing, etc. Great video.

SyntaxLost

Recommend you guys start experimenting with lacquer based acrylic paints and enamels. I know they're not commonly used in the miniatures world but us modelers love them.

Samuel Sanfratello

4y↑4

I'm eager to get the "Uncle Atom Premium Paints"! I'll gladly dump this "hot garbage" hodgepodge of paints I currently have! Especially if you get Sam to do tutorials for it! Hahahaha!

SquidCultist0 02

I've found that ProAcryl works great as basecoats and layering they're strong but easy to thin. Citadel makes good technical paints and Vallejo has excellent metallics. Different paints do different things better than others. Sticking to one brand

Jimmi The Schnoz

Uncle Atom, we NEED a video on colour mixing!!! This whole time I have been shading everything with black and white. I had no idea that shading colours required more nuance. Please Uncle Atom. Do it for lock down!!!

Matt Anglin

4y↑33

Help Sam create his own YouTube channel, his personality is perfect for it.

The Dogman

I haven't painted any Miniatures in probably over 20 years but in my garage I have a bunch of the old metal minis like Ral Partha etc. so I'm going to slowly build up my paint collection and start painting again what paints color-wise do you guys suggest I start buying first?

The Noob Painter

4y↑6

He has his own Twitch stream. He's SamsonArts over there if you want to check it out.

Jake E

Really love your videos like this. I think unlike most subscribers I'm not a miniature painter (I generally go for a 6 or 7 inch scale), but there's a lot of great information here that I can extrapolate and use in my own work.

Nathan Ehrenberger

4y↑1

I really enjoyed this conversation. Thank you for the info and the casual format

Arch from Spark

4y↑2

P3 and WarColour are best for me.
Started with Citedal, but overtime have found, for me, there are cheaper and better. Perhaps Citedal is most people's go to paint , cause it's readily available on the high street. Happy painting people.

Chris Palumbo

4y↑1

Yeah. I still use Citadel for everything pretty much, but it works for me. It allows me to support my local store and when I want to follow a painting guide that GW makes I know the exact colors I can use to try and achieve a similar effect. I think guides like that really help new painters get started without worrying about color theory, such as they helped me get started. Now I'm starting to do more of my own thing.

SigfridSWE

4y↑3

I would like to see a secund video on this subject were you talk even more about the Strengths of some paints. For example, in some situations it mite be most efficient to use contrast paints for the fastest but best result. And some times "classical" method are faster and gets you a better result for less work.
And what are those situations in your opinion...?

Formost of us, thats Whats Its about. We are not artists... We want to lern technics that easyly can be replicated and optimising all the "hobby cheats" you can, to get as close to "box-art" as possible in the easyest/fastest way possible. Thats what a lot of us are after. Nothing bad with replacing skill with some extra mony to get some help in some situations if you can.
(Im a builder, I kit-bash like crazy. Thats my thing. Then, I want a hight lvl fast)
I think thats what people mean when they ask about paint. You did not answer that in this video.
Thank you ☺️ 🤘🏻

Connor Jensen

3y↑1

I think red isn't really a problem color anymore - I'd substitute bright silver in. its gotten better, but its still not on the same level as other colors often.

David Kilby

I started painting largish scale reliefs and figures about a year ago. I started with vallejo. It seems to work for me. I can't afford to get multiple brands of paint

EngineerJeff

4y↑1

Love me some Vallejo, but I'm amiable with using certain P3 paints as well as Reaper.

Hobby Hammer

4y↑1

I've had several models make it onto Games Workshop's community-sourced product listing photos where a large portion of the model was painted with Apple Barrel paint, without them knowing it of course. You've just got to experiment until you learn how to use it. That said, more expensive brands are unquestionably easier to use.

Not that those community-sourced product listing photos are examples of award-winning paint jobs, but it's certainly a Games Workshop endorsement of a well-painted model.

Worromot

4y↑1

I use citadel for most but sometimes the colours can be a little "earthy" so if i want vibrant im going Vallejo. They're also good for coloured metallics and airbrush. Ive tried army painter and it refused to have any coverage whatsoever and didn't work in airbrush either.

Worromot

Also worth mentioning is Mr. Colour which is very similar to vallejo. Make sure you get the acrylic line and not laquer. White label is what you want.

Paul Austen

4y↑1

I’m using Scale 75, Vallejo, Citadel & army painter at the moment. I will probably add Kamara & p3 at some time. But I love Scale 75 at the moment.

Squeaks 6723

I am with you but only use citadels technicals and contrasts. I just recently picked up scale 75’s instant paints and am excited to use it.

DoctorBarbarian

I have multiple generations of Citadel paints (and inks!) going all the way back to the hexagonal pots, Model Color, Game Color, Scale Color, P3...I do not discriminate based on brand, only performance.

Beerenmüsli

4y↑1

This is a great format. Reminds me a lot of a podcast, but I can see your facial expressions, which I appreciate.

Dan

P3 are great, but they fall short when it comes to cold colours. Especially blue and green. Fortunately I like to paint in warm earthy colours, using colder ones for accents, so the range works great for my purpose.

Jbay2608

I'm still new to 40K. Right now I'm using the Citadel paints for my Ultramarines, simply because my local hobby store has the whole range and the Citadel app makes it so easy to find out what colours I need for my army from base to highlights.

TheRunesmythe

4y↑3

Wee, time to go into a (relatively) quick explanation of paint! All paints contain pigment, a solvent and a binder. In the case of acrylic paints, this is pigment (that doesn't change), water and an acrylic binder. The binder basically provides a lattice for the particles of pigment to adhere to, acting as a carrier; as the water (solvent) evaporates, the binder is what actually locks and holds the pigment in place on the surface of what you're painting. As long as you maintain a certain percentage of the binder, you can add more solvent (water) to thin it to your desired consistency; if the level of binder ever dips below this percentage the pigment winds up floating on the solvent and without the lattice those particles of pigment drift apart and can't form anything like a cohesive bond. This is why, if you've thinned your paint too much, it separates and you can actually see the pigment; it looks like grains of colored sand (the size depends on how well the pigment was ground) and when applied the pain will dry very splotchy and is more easily scraped away from the surface. Interestingly this is also the reason why you get "coffee staining" when you use too much wash or thin your wash too much; since they're thin to begin with, the pigment can separate more easily even when the wash is used full strength.

As for the topic of the video; it seems like consensus is that there isn't necessarily a single brand of paint that can be called "the best" which is definitely something I can understand since my collection of paints is rather diverse when it comes to brand. I have Vallejo paints from pretty much all of their lines (excluding Game Air simply because I haven't found any colors I feel like I need there yet), Army Paints, Reaper, Golden Artist's Acrylic, Rub'n'Buff, Tamiya and Citadel; when buying them, it came down to what color I wanted and what brand sells that particular color. When people ask me which paints they should get, my advice is always; it depends entirely on whether or not you're on a budget and how much you want to sink into this hobby. Depending on those answers, I'll tailor my recommendation based on cost versus quantity (how much paint you're getting for the price you're paying).

TheRunesmythe

4y↑1

@Bhoomtawath Plinsut So far as I know, binders usually remain the same within a specific line of paints. As a further explanation as to why I chose that wording, I'll use two Vallejo lines as an example; Model Color and Game Color. Vallejo Model Color uses a vinyl acrylic binder (because the paints were originally intended to be marketed towards special effects shops for painting masks, so they needed something more flexible but when that didn't pan out they instead decided to market it to miniature and model enthusiasts but kept the same binder) which is why they have a slightly rubbery feel to them and dry with a bit of a satin finish. Vallejo Game Color, on the other hand, was always intended for miniatures and instead uses an acrylic resin binder. This isn't something specific only to Vallejo; there are a number of companies who produce several different products under the same brand name (AK comes to mind immediately), so its worth doing research on something if you're thinking of buying it just to know what you're dealing with.

The other factor is the transparency or opacity of specific colors; colors like red and yellow tend to be very transparent naturally, regardless of the type of paint (acrylic, oil, lacquer, etc.) and thus require more work not only to achieve a good opacity but a strong, resilient layer of paint.

One final thing to keep in mind if you're having problems with paint is the nature of a suspension (this is what paints are; a solid suspended in some form of liquid); they separate over time, with the heavier solid pigments settling to the bottom. If you've ever gone for a ling period without using a paint and find that you're getting either just clear fluid or what looks like a very diluted color, this is the reason. Even if a paint looks well mixed in the bottle, its still worth shaking it for a few minutes just to make sure everything is fully incorporated; this goes double if the paint has been sitting unused for any length of time.

Bhoomtawath Plinsut

Damn good stuff here.

Could you explain why some color is unlikely to stick even without thinking?

Do they use different binding for each color even in the same brand?

Anthony

4y↑2

I've gone nutz and just buy what I like. Mostly P3 ,citadel and Vallejo, but I've also found a few reaper colors I like. I've gone into this fun spiral of experimentation since the start of the year and figure, if I absolutely hate it, take a few pics for Frankenstein memories and strip it. A bit bummed that we can't meet at adepticon. Missed you guys last year because we only can for the day. Had a project for the wicker hat contest and everything. Looks like my waaaaaaaaaaagh hat will have to wait till 2021 lol

Andrew Brehaut

4y↑1

FISTFULATHUNDER

The stuff the pigments are "floating" in is called vehicle. It carries the pigment and gives the paint its properties. Such as water based acrylic paint versus alcohol based enamels, or a heat resistant ink that is used on a ovenable plastic bags that you cook vegetables in. The pigments are mostly universal in all paints/inks.

holyhandgrenade3

I also bought Monument's White from LVO and I can attest its the easiest white I've worked with.

Stephen Magi-Sorge

Great discussion. I found I actually have two sets of paints. I have Valejho for my FoW figures and citadel for my GW products. There is some spill over for each, primarily because, a Velejho white in a dropper bottle means the colour will last longer and not get tainted by my careless brush. I thought it was kind that you didn't follow the issue of bottles. The primary trend being dropper bottles for miniature paints but with citadel bucking the trend with fairly difficult bottle to work with. (Which is not a comment on the paint inside, just the container).

12neef

4y↑4

This is a nice treat. Two videos in a week 😁

C Mc

this was a nice and good video, thankyou. i feel more encouraged to try different paint lines

LordPadriac

flbflb

4y↑2

I had flashbacks to that one time in artschool when I did a mural in pigments and the oxide-red I was mixing felt like putting brick-dust to medium.

marek011011

for me the best thing about citadel paints is that they come in that little tub so i can take just a tiny bit of the paint instead of relying on the dropper bottles like vallejo which will squirt out a bigger drop

Quikie93

I started out with Vallejo paints, but as time goes on i'm actually a bit drawn towards citadel paints - as I find that Vallejo is a bit hit or miss with consistency and are often a bit more on the thinner side.
But over time, I've collected a few P3 paints and since I started being a subscriber to Asset Drop I get new paints from new companies every month so now I have a lot of different fun paint brands to look into ^^

Bo paints minis

As a new painter, I have tried Citadel, P3, Coat D'Arms, Scale 75, Vallejo, Reaper, and Monument, and I really like the thinner paints better, except when they get TOO thin, but that it user error, SMDH.

Rabbit Burner

The advantage of one manufacturer is that many step by step instructional videos tend to use one set of paints. Looking at GW as a prime example, as you got to start somewhere and I got a shed load of GW minis. Now that I start thinking of my own paint schemes and non GW minis I start trying different paint manufacturers.

David North

Love Sam. He makes me laugh. "I didn't look like this when I started painting." Lmao

waynesolo

Citadel has been my favorite. I LOVE it. I use some P3 as well out of necessity, but GW Citadel is my favorite.

Dorn Jr.

I have the Frankenstein collection as well and it is controversial to be sure. I took a hobby class at LVO with someone who does this professionally and I was shocked he was anti-Vallejo as he said it would flake off in certain situations where he loved Reaper.

SOTMead

I have several flip-top pots of Citadel paint from the early 90s that are still good and maybe even superior quality. Their pot design is substandard, though, especially now. I'd put them back on the menu if they'd go to dropper bottle.

Casey Pierson

Scale 75 in my humble opinion followed by P3 Vallejo and Citadel. Scale 75 has such a lovely matte paint. But honestly so many citadel and p3 have unique colors that I’d spend forever trying to make. So I love that.

Basket Full of Holes

Hi! A bit off topic, but I was wondering what solution you used to clean your airbrush in with the ultra sonic cleaner, as well as what settings you used on the cleaner/what parts you kept out of the cleaner?

Rocketsong

I like Reaper best, followed by Valejo (which are much easier to find). Army Painter I wouldn't buy again, very thin. I'd rather thin Reaper or Valejo as required than deal with Army Painter's super thin paints. Never really liked Citadel in general, but their washes are outstanding.

Steve Johnson

Sam's comment about "helper colors" allowing for working with difficult colors is interesting. The way I learned to paint is the "GW Way" where you basecoat the full area with your mid-tone, add shading on top of the mid-tone (usually with a wash), then add highlights on top of the mid-tone. This method means that you need a really opaque basecoat to show through the shading and layering. It makes sense that if you start with mixing your mid tone with your shade/highlight color it will be easier to work with.

TypeiZ

4y↑1

i like ultramarine contrast colour a lot, but not for painting space marines. i think it's one of the best ways to paint jeans stuff with the right drybrush. ^^

Kaleb Russell

Have you ever tried wraith bone? Very thick I thin it down alot and do 2 coats but it's the color I use for purity seals and eventually necrons

Adrian Bell

Majority of my paints are first gen gw (think p3 or coat'd'arms), 1 fifteen year old vallejo, 1 p3, a few old humbrol and poly s plus a number of new jo sonja artist acrylics that I have been buying as other paints run out. They, more than craft paints aren't actually horribly far from miniature paints - not identical mind you. I've also recently gotten a golden brand titanium white - which is not the same as jo sonja but also quite usable. Please don't take this as saying 'go out and buy artist acrylics' as different brands work differently.

Joshua Hatch

So I had a question about the cool vs warm colors thing... Are you SUPPOSE to mix cool and warm tones on a model to get a balanced effect? Or should you try to stay with cool OR warm colors depending on the theme for the model?

I have been trying to pay attention to the warm vs cool aspect of color blending, but I didn't know how it applies to the WHOLE figure if that makes sense. thanks!!!

Kyle Williams

I use assorts of paints but Vallejo seems to have the best all round paints for the way I paint , I just buy different brands to replace the poor colours I come across

Chris Gui

Don't knock on Apple Barrel too much! Like you said, good for scenery and terrain, but I've purchased quite a few colors that had the consistency of GW Layer paints. Also, they come in a variety of different shades of the same colors make them great for someone's FIRST paints if they were unsure of getting into the hobby. I started with Americana and moved my way to GW. If I would do it all over again and didn't want to spend a bunch of money I would start with AB. I still have loads of my craft paints that I use regularly. It's not the price of the tool it's the skill in knowing how to use it. rant over, great discussion vid!

David Bruner

I lean towards Vallejo (I have the Game Air line but want to transition to non-air paints). I would consider getting some P3 if my favourite FLGS stocked them. Some local stores carry them but I'd rather not drive 30 minutes each way to get them.

Emmanuel Istace

Hi ! Got back this month into the hobby after a 10 years break, serious question, why are most "miniature people", when referring to "regular acrylics", compare to the lowest quality acrylics ever made ? I have quite few acrylics from Royal Talens (mainly Amsterdam range, but also few from their Van Gogh and Rembrandt range), I used them with a bit of fluidifier to avoid breaking the paint, and ofc, it's not "finger in the nose" easy, nothing is never finger in the nose easy, but it's way beyond everything that's on the tube regarding "cheap acrylics vs specialized acrylics" and worked really nice, especially regarding price, until I was able to get few vallejo and army painter as replacement for my dried out paints, and still, I'm still considering using those for my painting, imho, that would be awesome if few great painters like the ones present here would give a try to the "normal" or even high end acrylics on the market, nobody in the art world use the cheap acrylics often mentionned and ofc those will never be good enough for anything serious, wether it is on canvas or on a miniature. It's kind of sad that the knowledge from the art world is not imported in the miniature world and most miniature painter have little to no interest in learning how to paint or draw, how light works, how to use colors, sculpt a bit, etc... That's working against the "miniature brand" as, for instance GW, have really no interest in you becoming knowledgable and would prefer to have to stick to their product line, but we are not "their friend", or it's kind of an abusive one direction relationship (like telling people one specific tool for one specific job, as long as we sell it ! just the colors names are a jail, as the names have no real equivalent, once you start having in your head colors names like Skull White, Bleached Bone, Chaos Black, Codex Grey, Mithril Silver, etc, you'll not be able to transfer that knowledge to other brands, where in the art world, pantone or pigments names are used most of the time, allowing you to buy a titanium white or cadmium red from accross brands and be more or less sure you have the correct hsv you were looking for, especially when looking for nuances that don't always can be seen through the packaging or too much altered by ambient lighting) There are all skills and knowledges developed for centuries in the art field that would apply really well with miniature painting and it's most of the time a totally free of charge knowledge ! Yet, would make few brands not that happy, but not sure it's the hobbyist job to play the brand game :/ Knowledge is freedom (as well as money, time invested in knowledge will be more beneficial imho than time investing in learning calatog or buying pre made "solutions")
(BTW, been binge watchibng your channel while getting back into it, I love your general attitude, I feel like you are more a gamer/hobbyist than a consumer, especially regarding proxy or using other rulesets with miniatures you already have, etc, etc, that's really amazing to have that opinion on the tube, got back into LOTR and currently planning on "altering" BloodBowl into RingBowl, like everybody does in tabletop rpg, funny how people would consider that sacrilegious sometimes, like if the GW police would arrest us by doing what we want with our private properties, that's consumerism at it's peak and I feel you would be on the opposite side of the spectrum, maybe your age/maturity/generation ? (with a lot of respect))
That's a TLDR message, bless you if taking time to answer !
love and play.

David M

I started with Floquil many years ago, which had very fine pigment. Didn't like the xylene thinner, tho, and it didn't like me.
Switched to Humbrol paints, which I like very much. Their silver is very good. Also, they sold their medium, which was useful.
Coming back to the hobby after some years, I dabbled in craft paints, which I still use for terrain, then settled on Vallejo for most work. I do have some Reaper triads for skin and hair. Also liking Mission Models primers.

Andrew Petyo

4y↑6

Warcolours makes the best white. Zero chalky and very smooth.

Adrian J

I'm a big army painter guy for the thinner consistency but gw makes the best dry brush paints hands down. Also wraithbone from gw is the most chalky paint I've ever used

austin olivieri

4y↑1

I just painted a bunch of fists using Arteza paints. Wow. I am sold on those. They where 50 paints for 40$. I put over a base of Army Painter Desert Yellow paint/primer. Everything else was Arteza. The paints come in a paste like tooth paste so you have to get a medium. Every color essentially starts out as a dry brush. But I now have a matte and a gloss medium and now every color can be whatever consistency or finish I want. I liked the colors so much I just picked up their metallics line which I love as well, 36 for 40$. I could not start with a white or black primer and go to yellow. I could do that with GW paint if I wanted. I am not spending 5 dollars for a pot which dries out in a couple years. I have one hundred colors for ~90$. My only issue is that I want to use them all and that will take me a long time.

Please comment and I will share pics with a link to what I have painted.

Corey Morse

According to Anne Foerster, who designed Reaper's paints, the pigment size thing isn't really the problem. Any given pigment making roughly the same color is going to be roughly the same size across all the brands because if it's not that size it will be a different color. Rather than the pigment the chunkiness/chalkiness is usually coming from the size and type of the matte particulate. There are some exception, like when companies use different types of pigments to achieve the same color you can end up with bigger pigment chunks, but generally if it's the same pigment and same color then its the same size.

karasawa21797

I think you could quite happily use exclusively Vallejo paints. Others brands I'd not say the same for.

Hobbiest

I think for beginners finding a paint you like is more secondary to learning the paints and tools. For example after I started using a wet palette my thoughts on allot of paints changed and once I learned my method and tools I was able to say oh I like this one for this purpose or that paint for dry brushing ect.

PanzerJäger Hantoeig

I believe the same applies for scale modelling. Tamiya and Mr Hobby is my go to but I also have an entire set of Vallejo paints for Luftwaffe aircraft, along with AK and Mig weathering products. When I got into Flames of War, I simply used the same paints and techniques as I would usually do with my bigger stuff. I did not expect this but It turned out excellent. Right now I'm just starting to venture into W40K with the First Strike starter and I'm already thinking I could maybe use the USN Navy Blue for the Ultramarines. Reckon it would work?

darkmistress1980

ive been getting the WH conquest so ive been getting a crap tonne of citadel paints (use dropper bottles and agitators guys) but ive been buying alot of the vallejo paints (game color/model color) but i want to try the paint through proacryl (from creature caster) some of those metals look diiiiiiivine. (no one in australia stocks them tho *sigh*) ive also tried a few of the scale color (through scale75) and i kind of like some of the colors but i dont like the "gel" medium the pigment is in. and some one thats still just getting into the hobby i find them a bit of a pain in the ass to use. i find white a color i dont like to wear or paint (specially through citadel they suck balls)

Lonnie Willett

4y↑1

I am new to Warhammer AoS, bought Slaves to Darkness start collecting box. I was curious if the Army painter Mega set is a good paint set to start with? Never painted before in my life...

ravener

Probbably too late, but you probably dont need the whole mega set. Black, white, a pure yellow, red and blue, is a base, then add the couple of colors you intend on putting on the mini. Use the base colors to mix the ones you use in different directions

Peter Agostini jdcap26 tips an repairs and hobbies

Great discussion in the video do a part 2 details of each paint 🎨

Peter Agostini jdcap26 tips an repairs and hobbies

The paints I use model air , reaper , aztek pearls and opage. , mix apple with Jesus juice , and testors enamels .
Been eyeing 😜 mission model , Tamiya and mr hobbie ..

Load More Comments...

More Comments

just now